oil pressure loss and lifters noisey
#11
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He get' noisy lifters at the same time.
You are either overfilling the oil by a good amt and whipping the crap out of the oil or your clearances are way off or you oil pick up is cracked / leaking air/ or fell off..
You are either overfilling the oil by a good amt and whipping the crap out of the oil or your clearances are way off or you oil pick up is cracked / leaking air/ or fell off..
#12
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I thought about aerating the oil but the level is correct on the correct dipstick with an aftermarket higher capacity pan so I would think the oil level is ok.i have not verified that yet.new pump and screen and it did it with the old pump and screen so I don't really suspect that.i was hoping somebody would have a magic answer but im thinking the same as most of you guys(bearing clearance).hopefully he'll let me tear it apart and check it.i will post my findings when I figure it out.it ran almost all season last year with the exact same set up is what kinda has me puzzled.it just happened all the sudden.thanks for the help.
#13
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Moist everything happens 'all of a sudden.'
#15
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#17
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I built a 500 hp motor for my first boat, a 17 ft cobrajet. It was more of a vee hull than a little lake racer, I drove it like a offshore race boat. It never had a oil cooler since new and driven hard my oil pressure sucked at hot idle (I bought it with a hurt motor and finished that off right away THEN built a 500 hp replacement), ended up turning bearings to copper and eating up crank, I pulled it out and redid it again and added a small oil cooler and never had a problem again. The fact you have no oil cooler would make me say get a infrared gun and shoot pan/filter and see how hot oils getting, if idled around and blipped once in a while prob not neccesary BUT if driven hard for long periods of time getting temp down might bring it up to 10 or 20 psi. Again, see how hot oil is, when you start going abpve 225 to 250 pressure starts going away, mine was 280 to 300 degrees before adding cooler, no air hits pan so no kinda cooling, too much timing will heat oil up too
Last edited by articfriends; 05-28-2016 at 09:33 PM.
#18
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A guy on Hotrodders.com had no pressure after a build in a correct bearing clearance engine. It had a chunk of rtv fall in the oil pressure port!
So lesson is, when you open the engine check it all. Including mic the cam journals and bearings, they have a major effect on oil pressure.
Clean out all the galleries too. Brushes, eyes and lights in each one. Betcha there's something wrong in the galleries or clearances.
So lesson is, when you open the engine check it all. Including mic the cam journals and bearings, they have a major effect on oil pressure.
Clean out all the galleries too. Brushes, eyes and lights in each one. Betcha there's something wrong in the galleries or clearances.
#19
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Clearance pan to pickup 5/16 to 3/8 - this is important
You need to verify the dipstick/oil level regardless of new pan, etc. Is there a windage tray on the main caps or built into the pan? There should be. You need to make sure that the full mark puts the oil level below the tray or at the very least below the crank/rods.
What happens if you put a new filter on it?
You need to verify the dipstick/oil level regardless of new pan, etc. Is there a windage tray on the main caps or built into the pan? There should be. You need to make sure that the full mark puts the oil level below the tray or at the very least below the crank/rods.
What happens if you put a new filter on it?
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Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
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www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
#20
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I built a 500 hp motor for my first boat, a 17 ft cobrajet. It was more of a vee hull than a little lake racer, I drove it like a offshore race boat. It never had a oil cooler since new and driven hard my oil pressure sucked at hot idle (I bought it with a hurt motor and finished that off right away THEN built a 500 hp replacement), ended up turning bearings to copper and eating up crank, I pulled it out and redid it again and added a small oil cooler and never had a problem again. The fact you have no oil cooler would make me say get a infrared gun and shoot pan/filter and see how hot oils getting, if idled around and blipped once in a while prob not neccesary BUT if driven hard for long periods of time getting temp down might bring it up to 10 or 20 psi. Again, see how hot oil is, when you start going abpve 225 to 250 pressure starts going away, mine was 280 to 300 degrees before adding cooler, no air hits pan so no kinda cooling, too much timing will heat oil up too