cmi header install
#11
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im about tapped out on cash on this project... im thinking about shimming the p/s/alt bracket out a lil bit then header wrapping the water inlet tube if this is a bad idea im open to suggestions thanks Jacob
#13
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You can't shim the bracket because it will change the belt alignment. But the idea to put some angle fittings at the ends of the tubes makes sense. I'd see if you can get some angle shaped hose and put a barb between it and the provided hose. Back a few years there were books with the different shapes and diameters. We'd use them to make up repair parts for auto and truck heater/cooling hoses. Plus it's easy and relatively low cost. Compared to replacing or moving your brackets or your alternator.
I just typed in 5/8" hose bend and 3/4" hose bend in ebay and got lots of hits.
I just typed in 5/8" hose bend and 3/4" hose bend in ebay and got lots of hits.
Last edited by NHGuy; 08-04-2016 at 02:30 PM.
#15
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I had similar problems when I installed cmi etops on my old carb'd mag motors. The hose didn't clear my mando alternator. I tried using the hoses from cmi's old split top headers, I believe they called them octopuses. It was close but not enough. Ended up using the feed tubes that came with the headers, and re drilled my alternator bracket to "clock" it lower. I also extended the adjustment slot on the bracket to allow the alternator to swing closer to the block. I did have to hit the block with a grinder to remove a small bit of casting flashing to give a slight bit of clearance r
#16
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Sorry hit wrong button. Any way just to allow a slight bit of clearance for the alternator housing. I might have even removed a small amount of the alternator casting with the grinder. You would have to run a shorter belt. Good luck.
Last edited by halfgassed; 08-14-2016 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Stooopid cumputar oberatar