dereknkathy

You mentioned rust spots in intake. That means it is an iron intake. 330 hp. Ok ticking. You probly stuck a valve or 2, bent pushrods to go along with. Pull valve covers. Spin on starter or fire up. See what they are doing. All 16 look ok? Now get the compression tester out. If valves are stuck, scare up a set of L29 heads. Smaller chambers, Lil bigger intake ports. Common, cheap and 96 or newer so less issues that come with age. Also, GO BACK TO THE 19 INCH PROP!!! That is a true 26. Big boat for 330. And right now your tired, half-siezed, lucky to be alive engine is running about 300 hp tops. And stay on touch. And where are you?

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Have to agree with phragle, do a compression test, my bet is its just a tired motor.

Going from 19 to 21 will just slow you down more so long as your unable to turn the 19 at max RPM

dna

don't know how to do a leak down test, but did the compression test.

Bad news. All were good at between 105 to 110 psi except cylinders 3 and 5 (the two mid ones on the right side) were at zero. So only running on 6 of the 8 right now.

So now I have a few questions:

1) I need to get this from my dock to the boat launch - can I run and drive it for about 10 mins to get to the launch or should I arrange to get it 'towed' back? If OK, should I run it low rpm or does it not matter. Basically want to prevent further damage

2) I called the assh-hole mech, just to see what he would say about it. He said being they are side-by-side, his bet was on a blown head gasket - he said stuck valves are very rare and plus since the 2 cyclinders are side-by-side this is a common sign for a blown head gasket

3) What would have caused this - was it from working the engine too hard???? I find that hard to believe cause I was watching the temp and it was fine and obviously I was not over revving it - I can't see how working it hard would have caused this??? That mech I called said it would be simply due to age (if a bad head gasket). Your thoughts.

4) BTW - there is no clanking noise so I doubt it is the washer that I lost somewhere in the engine bay area - or could it still be even though at idle (even with 6 cyclinders) there is no unusual noise????

5) That mech I called said the head gasket is a 25 hr job and he quoted me $1500. Said he would charge me the same if it was a stuck valve and the head needed machining. Is this a good price????

6) If a bad head gasket, how hard of a job is this??? Does the engine need to come off and the leg off? I am pritty handy so I probably can do it, but really my time right now is tight.

BTW - I'm in Calgary, AB.

Thanks

dereknkathy

pull the intake. pull the exhausts. remove the heads. yes it is a blown head gasket in all likelihood. what caused it? who knows? it is not a 25 hr job unless you hafta read instructions and buy tools for each step. better to get towed, but if you have to drive it, take out both cyls bad plugs so you don't hurt head or block blowing fire across thru gap where gasket blew. no, engine does not need to come out.

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Unless your in real bad trouble with needing a Mech, don't even return the call to one your talking to. Now if you can turn a wrench your self, let us know we can walk you thru the job.

You can buy a complete long block for under 2000, then all you need to do is swap the accessories

dna

Thanks guys for the feedback

Yeah, I'm not calling that assh-hole mech back - I've looked at kijiji and found some boat mech and will charge $60/hr and they will come to my place for free.

I definately can turn a wrench - I'm pritty good with accessories and electrical just never been an inside motor guy. But willing to do this if not too hard and if the length isn't going to take me 25 hours.

Would appreciate some instructions if anyone has some. Thanks

dna

I'm going to ask a real dumb question. Instead of towing or driving back to the launch, can I do this job with the boat in the water? I think so, but just want to make sure that removing the exhaust isn't going to start getting water in from the leg, etc, etc. I know - is is a dumb question but just want to make sure.

If OK, I'll just work on it from my dock.

Thanks

dereknkathy

between us and youtube you can do this. the hardest part may be getting rusty exh manifold or head bolts out. and you are fresh water so it will probably be less of an issue.

dereknkathy

is the boat thru hull or thru prop exhaust? if thru hull it is safe. if thru prop, the top of y pipe is not far above waterline. you would need to cap off y pipe or at least put the elbow pipe back on to get yourself 6 inches or so of height above water. it will be easier in the driveway.

dna

Thanks for encouragement. I think I'll tackle it - any advice or good directions would be appreciated. Being a beginner, how long of a job could I expect this to be.

As for my exhaust, I have both through a switch (captain call). I guess I could make it thru hull but not sure of the valve/flapper would stop flow 100% - so I guess I'll move it to my driveway tomorrow.

Thanks