AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

No way, no shape and no how

The boat has to be out of the water and the drive has to come off first.
Then remove battery and cables
Fuel lines
Electrical engine connection and ground cables.

dna

Yeah, its coming onto the driveway tomorrow - would be tough in the water anyway from all the wake and movement.

OK, another dumb question - why does the leg have to come off? Can't I remove the head from the block without touching the leg?

Thanks

dna

I know there would be no way to prove, but could have the assh-hole mech caused this if he set the total timing way off? I don't think so cause whatever he did it sounded OK with idling and revving and even at 3900 sounded good. I'd think if he messed it way off that the engine would have sounded bad. Plus only about 15 mins of riding was all I did after he set the timing - I'd think running lean or rich or way off timing would take a while to do damage to a head????

Thanks

phragle

iTrader: (3)

He is not pulling the motor...

phragle

iTrader: (3)

You were over propped and pulling a big tube. THats the equivalent of trying to pull a trailer uphill in fifth gear. It may not have caused it, but it sure didnt help it.

dna

I don't have anyone that that tow me that far. I think I'm going to drive it - it is actually only about 2km from my dock to the launch. I'll pull the 2 plugs out before I start it up. Is it best to limp back (ie. keep rpm around 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm, or go the max the boat will go which is only about 2500rpm right now???

Or is 2km too far to go in this state, which will only cause more problems?

Thanks

dereknkathy

I doubt it was any deliberate sabotage by the mech. and I don't see why drive has to come off either. pull distrib, carb and intake first. then exhaust manifolds. easiest would probably be take the risers off the manifolds. they need inspected anyway. they could be 25 years old and needing replacement. the boots on exhausts will be a fight. take off clamps. shove small screwdriver into gap between boot and riser. spray WD 40 into gap and work screwdriver around perimeter. now you have the exh manifold bolts. 9/16ths and old. make sure you bang the socket all the way on the bolt head with a hammer so they don't strip. hard to see them where they are. once exh are off you have 17 head bolts. the 9 outboard of the valve covers could have had water dripping on them and they could be rusted smaller. once I had to take a cut-off wheel and cut the bolts and some of the heads (cyl head-not bolt head) to get them off. so make sure you get the most likely half inch or possibly 5/8th inch socket on these bolts good. these are also set at 65 ft lbs torque. and they will be tighter now. several bolts under valve cover are hard to spot and 2 will require removing rockers to get to them properly. google 454 head bolt tightening sequence and you will get a pic of their locations so you are sure you got them all. if you get the heads off tomorrow get some pics of what you got for damage. do not use 12 point sockets on the exhaust or head bolts.

dereknkathy

[QUOTE=dna;4557812]I don't have anyone that that tow me that far. I think I'm going to drive it you can drive it back. low throttle. 12 to 1500 will get him home. gonna sound really loud. take plug wires off at cap end also.

phragle

iTrader: (3)

Dont pull the plugs, just pull the wires. If you pull the plugs you will be blowing a nice fuel/air mixture straight into the engine compartment,

dna

Gonna start calling tomorrow shops to price out the parts I'll need.

From youtubing, they suggest new heads bolts and obviously the head gasket - my engine serial is OD831888 - I assume shops just need this to get the exact fitment?

Other than possible machining of the head, what other parts and gaskets will I need, assuming the valves are OK??

Thanks