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Silent Choice/Captains Call Side Exit

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Old 06-27-2017, 11:01 AM
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pic of diverters
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:04 PM
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corsa and Volvo worked together on that design above. and also a few different things for the Volvo CAT engines. I was there in person when all of that was being installed with Volvo and Corsa for an engine on a engine stand.
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BUP
the crossover for Volvo doing silent choice is 100 percent needed and there is a Volvo Service Bulletin all about. A short jist is -- it helps equalize the exhaust pulses and in return helps against water reversion. Out the side exhaust sounds like an engine running on half its bank.

Have done over 60 Volvo s in the past 16 years from 2001 to brand new boats 5.0 to 8.1 -- carb apps to MPI - Silent Choice installs. A lot had to be out the side exhaust with the family Rec boats.
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Interesting. Just out of curiosity what's the design difference that makes the volvo setup want this while the merc setup doesnt.

After 60 installs, got any good advice for the least messy way to cut through the hull without risking chipping the gel coat?

Last edited by BigChris; 06-27-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:15 PM
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if you can find another route, do not do side exhaust. I had a 27 nova. twin 350's side exhaust. rocking side to side tied to the dock both engines ingested water. sold it to a buddy. he cut thru hulls above platform and just let the exhaust water run off the platform. wasn't all that aesthetically pleasing, but worked way better than wellcraft's idea... cutting exhaust holes. the correct size holesaw. measure your tips. if 4-1/8ths, use 4-1/4. 4 inch even, 4-1/8.

Last edited by dereknkathy; 06-27-2017 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dereknkathy
if you can find another route, do not do side exhaust. I had a 27 nova. twin 350's side exhaust. rocking side to side tied to the dock both engines ingested water. sold it to a buddy. he cut thru hulls above platform and just let the exhaust water run off the platform. wasn't all that aesthetically pleasing, but worked way better than wellcraft's idea... cutting exhaust holes. the correct size holesaw. measure your tips. if 4-1/8ths, use 4-1/4. 4 inch even, 4-1/8.
Thanks for the heads up, but she's a trailer princess.
When we're done on the water, she goes back into my detached garage/shop.

This was the reason I was looking to mount the tips a little higher on the hull. But it begs the question- whats more important more of a downhill slope to the exhaust route or just higher on the hull.

Also with the diverters closed (as default would be with the ignition off (switch will only have power when ignition is in the "on" position) wouldn't it provide a descent amount of resistance to water ingress?

Last edited by BigChris; 06-27-2017 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:00 AM
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extension blocks for the risers possible , you need to measure your waterline distance to the riser to figure all that at your from how you load your boat with everything including fuel AND PEOPLE hanging on the swim platform creating the stern deeper in the water. This is common to have water enter thru the exhaust. too much weight on the extended swim platform parting at rest and wave slaps up against the hull. just one example.

Next. . All connections of hoses especially from the riser need to be straight - any off angle hose / boot restricts water flow and creates a hot spot internally of the rubber hose - this in return blisters and burns a hole thru the rubber boot creating a huge water leak inside the engine compartment. Anyways good luck with it.

I was about to do a silent choice even with all new manifolds and risers, the boat came in last week and what I always check first before anything is ----- found the lower transom soft. So all of that has to get fixed first before anything. Make sure all is solid before doing anything. Just saying
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BUP
extension blocks for the risers possible , you need to measure your waterline distance to the riser to figure all that at your from how you load your boat with everything including fuel AND PEOPLE hanging on the swim platform creating the stern deeper in the water. This is common to have water enter thru the exhaust. too much weight on the extended swim platform parting at rest and wave slaps up against the hull. just one example.

What's a "safe" number in inches from the waterline to the riser? I've got to imagine the waterline in the stock exhaust system will be the same as the water line inside the select-able system, if the manifolds and risers remain the same.

Next. . All connections of hoses especially from the riser need to be straight - any off angle hose / boot restricts water flow and creates a hot spot internally of the rubber hose - this in return blisters and burns a hole thru the rubber boot creating a huge water leak inside the engine compartment. Anyways good luck with it.

Thanks again, the tech guy at Corsa mentioned the exact same thing. He said a very gentle radius is acceptable but a tight bend will do exactly what you said.

I was about to do a silent choice even with all new manifolds and risers, the boat came in last week and what I always check first before anything is ----- found the lower transom soft. So all of that has to get fixed first before anything. Make sure all is solid before doing anything. Just saying
Another reason I dont want to drill large holes in the transom. Years ago, I replaced (when I say I, I mean I did the labor) a transom in our first boat a Bayliner Capri 1750, what PITA. The plywood came out like wet dog food. Horrible experience. Took about 200 man hours, and probably 3 years off my life. So I'm not a huge fan of drilling holes in the transom for any reason.

On a side note, the transom in this boat is a closed cell foam core, Four Winns along with some the Gen Mar brands (Glastron I Know for sure) switched to composite transoms in 2004-2005ish. While they will get eventually get saturated if you have a leak, there is no wood to rot.

Thanks everyone for your input. This was exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for. Happy boating and continue to enjoy your summer.

Last edited by BigChris; 06-28-2017 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:37 PM
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Side exhaust sounds good IF you have a crossover / H pipe. My boat has side exhaust that sits right in the waterline. You see alot of Chaparrals, Cobalts, etc. Set up with the exhaust in the water at rest. Being a seasoned veteran of side exhaust, I would want slope/drop over tip placement. All or most of the Corsa side tips will have a flapper valve installed. I personally would be surprised if you had an issue with reversion, that cam has has very little overlap and internal flappers in your tips will (and like Bup stated, the crossover tube) minimize any reversion with your set up.
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:46 PM
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I had a 1989 23 Velocity/Regal with a 454 mag. It also had side exhaust and IMO it sounded fantastic. It originally had stock Mercruiser exhaust with mufflers. I put on Lightning headers and removed the mufflers. Great boat, we had a lot of fun with that boat.
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Old 06-30-2017, 07:00 AM
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Most Corsa side tips are oval in shape and the hole you will cut in the hull will be oval as well. I would guess the tips would come with a template from Corsa. The Corsa tips also have stainless butterfly flappers in them with silicon boots. My tops sit right above the waterline. I've never had water enter up thru the tips. I have had water enter up thru the y-pipe.
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