WHIPLASH

Perko flush pro kit. Are they worth putting in and do they hold up?

Tractionless

I'm using without issue for over a year now. Another member here posted a friends broke and almost sunk the boat. If it's installed correctly and not banging on something I can't fathom how that can happen.

mouse4x4

I had it on my boat and and the first one cracked so I replaced it with another it cracked and fell into 2 pieces. So then I went with a all bronze unit that has been crack free.

WHIPLASH

What model or brand all brass unit did you get?

mouse4x4

I got it thru a vender online called (yachts of stuff).

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I believe that's the same one that Baja installed from the factory. They are known to get jammed up with debris and the check-ball inside will not allow water flow causing overhead conditions. If you like the kit, that's fine; but take it apart and remove that check ball & spring. It's only a point of failure. Unless you plan on flushing when you are still sitting in the water, you don't need it. I wouldn't really want plastic like that in my system anyhow. Look into a better flush kit with a Stainless Steel "Tee" into the inlet hose from the drive. I made my own years ago, and it worked great. Vendors like Hardin Marine sell parts and kits better than that Perko.

mouse4x4

It is all bronze and there are no check valves or springs in it. It is basically a bronze tee that has a ball valve on the one side that has a quick.connect you can hook a garden hose to.

Tractionless

From what I can tell the check ball and spring cannot be removed as that is how the flow path from the drive is interrupted so water doesn't simply flow out the pickup hose and out the raw-water pickup But rather to the sea water pump, where it needs to be to enter the engine.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

1) You don't need the check ball in there to flush UNLESS you want to be sure to flush your engine with FRESH water while the boat is MOORED in SALT water.
2) IF the check ball is NOT present, the water will flow backwards out of the drive, from the "Tee" out the drive, "backflushing" from the "Tee" out all of your water pickup passages through the transom assembly and drive which is paramount. I personally know of a couple of Baja owners who had issues with the water passages within the transom assembly because these were never flushed and they were regular salt water boaters.
3) IF the check ball is NOT present, and you turn on the water hose, then turn on the engine, the SWP will suck the water from the "Tee" right up into the motor.
4) You do not need the check ball in there. As I said, it's a point of failure. I know several people who kept housing but removed the "innerds".
5) I personally just installed "empty SS Tees" in my 496HOs, and flushed exactly as above for 12 years just as such with no issues.
6) I wouldn't lie to you. A few other PITA OSO members, perhaps. But not someone with genuine how-to questions.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Did some searching/digging, and I think this is what I put in my boat years ago:



SS T Fitting 1 1/4"H X 3/4"H - Marine Industries West



Notice, Eddie Marine sells nice complete kits and they have a BALL VALVE that you can install if you want to actually cut off the water flow between the "Tee" and the Transom Assembly. BUT, you are going to have an easier time installing this valve if you have sea strainers, especially in a stock engine package.

IF you put a ball valve in your water system, you better hang a "Remove Before Flight" lanyard or something similar on your key switch or throttle(s) to ensure you have that Ball Valve OPEN before you fire the boat in the water.

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Engine Flushing Kits