TRS Tips & Tricks
#1
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Thread Starter
TRS Tips & Tricks
It's been almost 20 years since I've owned a TRS boat and my guess is someone has learned some new tricks for keeping them alive.
This new boat has TRS on it and as I'm going through it, I'm wondering what I can do to help them live. If memory serves, the uppers were fairly bulletproof if not aboused. The lowers on the other hand had their issues.
Beyond non-pitted gears and proper setup, are there any new tricks?
This new boat has TRS on it and as I'm going through it, I'm wondering what I can do to help them live. If memory serves, the uppers were fairly bulletproof if not aboused. The lowers on the other hand had their issues.
Beyond non-pitted gears and proper setup, are there any new tricks?
#2
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It's been almost 20 years since I've owned a TRS boat and my guess is someone has learned some new tricks for keeping them alive.
This new boat has TRS on it and as I'm going through it, I'm wondering what I can do to help them live. If memory serves, the uppers were fairly bulletproof if not aboused. The lowers on the other hand had their issues.
Beyond non-pitted gears and proper setup, are there any new tricks?
This new boat has TRS on it and as I'm going through it, I'm wondering what I can do to help them live. If memory serves, the uppers were fairly bulletproof if not aboused. The lowers on the other hand had their issues.
Beyond non-pitted gears and proper setup, are there any new tricks?
#4
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#5
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"back when", we abused the hell out of TRS drives. If maintained properly, they were damn near unbreakable. Konrads are nice but they're no give-away. This is an interim boat anyway while I finish the re-rig on the Apache.
#6
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Yeah, I saw that. Most likely it's a dry-film lubricant/surface treatment like M2SO4 or WSX and then cryo. We've done that for a long time and it does work well. Cheap too.
#7
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#8
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M2SO4 is ordinary Molybdenum disulfide- or simply "moly". It's blended into a base and applied via spray, then baked on. It builds a very slippery thin film of about 0.0001". WSX is tungsten disulfide. It's a very fine powder that can be infused into the surface of ferrous metals by burnishing. It's stronger and slipperier than moly but harder to apply. Another material is boron nitride which is the equivalent of ball bearings made of diamonds that lack brittleness. Basically the toughest, slipperiest stuff ever. It's bonded to an electroless nickel base that's process-applied. Haven't tried it on gears- but this may be a good time to try it.
You already know what cryo is.
You already know what cryo is.
#9
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Chris:
Tres Martin used to change all his customer's TRS oil to full synthetic Royal Purple. Made them more reliable.
It seems like any more prop than the Mirage series, (3-Blade), puts a strain on the drive that eventually finishes it off.
Tres Martin used to change all his customer's TRS oil to full synthetic Royal Purple. Made them more reliable.
It seems like any more prop than the Mirage series, (3-Blade), puts a strain on the drive that eventually finishes it off.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've been hearing about Royal Purple from a pal who races BMW's. He swears by it. I'm going to try it.
Ed, you wouldn't believe the Cig. I know I said I was just going to tidy it up and run it. That didn't last. Within 24 hours of being back, the engine compartment was gutted and the transom stripped. The cockpit is stripped and off to upholstery. I'm going to strip the cabin tomorrow. I've already ordered a couple sets of JE's and a pair of BDS 8-71's for it.
Ed, you wouldn't believe the Cig. I know I said I was just going to tidy it up and run it. That didn't last. Within 24 hours of being back, the engine compartment was gutted and the transom stripped. The cockpit is stripped and off to upholstery. I'm going to strip the cabin tomorrow. I've already ordered a couple sets of JE's and a pair of BDS 8-71's for it.