pennys spent

I rebuilt my Bravo one 0M162685 When I reinstalled it was difficult to go into reverse, I had to do it by hand from the cable. After a few times it would no longer go into reverse. I also tried to lengthen cable still no luck. Opened it up and checked again that all was assembled correctlly, and I noticed that the fork was tight. I lined it up on the shifting shaft and re-torgued to correct 80 inch lbs reinstalled but same problem excists. It goes into forward fine but to get back to neutral you have to go way past neutral and it wont go into reverse at all. By the way I have 496 HO engines. Any sugesstions would be appreciated.

Mr Gadgets

Pennys,
did you time the gears? Put a + above the - sign on the gears? With the drive in neutral can you twist the input shaft and feel any drag on it? The gears are timed and allow the fork to bounce up and down between the brass rings, so it shouldnt be tight in any spot..

Hope this helps.
Dick

pennys spent

Yep it was timed as descibed in manual. I also purchased new top and bottom spacers (verified stamp on case and checked that they were correct size) and bearings the only thing not new is the clutch and springs and shaft

Boater8987

I had this same problem before. It was the clutch shaft itself was worn out down at the bottom of the twisted splines, where they meet the surface, that the gear rides on. The splines were worn thin and the clutch would bind on them and not shift. I replaced the shaft and clutch. The problem went away. Just something else to check maybe ?
Gary

pennys spent

I did inspect the splines on both they seemed fine and it shifted fine until I broke the gear i.e. the reason I rebuilt it three teeth broke

JaayTeee

When installed, on the shift fork cam, are the nuts on the top,
or bottom ?

If they're on the top, the cam is installed upside down,
and you'll have shifting problems.

pennys spent

They are down, When on my table I spun the prop and the clutch would rise and lower as i worked the fork. So it everything in the case seemes right . Thats why I assumed that the fork was the answer.

formula31

Just something to look at and Mr Gadgets is the one to listen to but after you blow one of these things up, the aluminum casings themselves can be damaged, sometimes not visibly. I lost a couple teeth on a pinion and rebuilt and quickly blew the drive to smitherines and couldnt figure out what I had done wrong. When the gear broke the first time it had twisted the case and the bearing surfaces on the top cap were actually .025 out of alignment with the rest of the drive stack. Now I measure things real good and have made some alignment fixtures so I know if the cases are ok. I know there are different sized parts in these things over the years, are you sure you got the right gears, bearings, etc to match your clutch? I dont ever recall a difference in the shifting forks. Dick will know.

txriverrat2001

If the shift shaft is not perfectly straight and or the shift fork not parallel to the shaft - this will create an issue as well. When gears fail and drives lock up - the shift fork gets forced either up or down - this will bend the shaft and also the shift fork. This is where I would check next.....

Mr Gadgets

Pennys,
Have you checked the shift cable alingment? It sounds like if you have to go past the neutral position to get it to neutral, then the cable could be misadjusted. Pull the cable out of the transistion block, the cable from the shifter with the barrel nut on it. Shift using the cable and see if it goes into fwd and rev. Then back to neutral. If the barrel is lined up with it's holder on the block then the problem is inside the drive. Also make sure the adjustment with the slotted hole has not moved, that sets the depth of throw on the clutch fork. You dont want it to go to deep or the fork rubs the brass rings. Too shallow and it wont go into gear. Another thing to look at is the cam surfaces. If they are worn it wont force the cone into the gear far enough.
Hope that helps.
Dick