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Flush neccesary when switching to Amsiol??

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Flush neccesary when switching to Amsiol??

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Old 12-25-2008, 02:00 PM
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Thanks for the numbers, very impressive IMO. Glad I'm making the switch. I don't punish my drives by any means but I really can't afford to rebuild/replace drives every year or two like a lot of these guys talk about. By the way... nice lookin set up.
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:00 PM
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Thanks no problem!!! I dont own the drives but there still around and I think up for sale.These are what I run now.
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Old 12-28-2008, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by HotPursuit
Mercs oil didnt even make the top 5 from independent testing.

My testing was on #3 speedmasters with all large shafts running 1100+hp. With the Merc oil we would burn up bearings and gears under 50 hrs. Changed to Amsoil and NEVER hurt a bearing again 150+ hrs at very high input shaft speeds. 1-1 gear ratio turning them 5700-6000 for up to 25 miles. The merc oil would puke out the vents @ 4-5 miles because of the heat.. Im sure everyone has a opinion but I run amsoil in everything I own, with great results!! The drives are still around
Is the Merc HP Syn gear oil 75w-90 or 50w? I cant find any specs on it. I was told it is a 50 weight oil. Is the 75w-90 to thick for the dravo-1 or the xr? Have you tested the Royal Purple? Im getting ready to install my new xr-upper and the Imco sportsmaster lower. I want the best oil possible!
This is a single engine boat with bravo-1 and I never had any problems. So I put in my new engine, close to 600hp.
I put 9.5 hrs on the new engine and had to put the boat up for winter. Then I went to do all my service work. When I pulled the drain plug for the outdrive the oil had a bad burnt smell.
It had never smelled like this before and its only had the Mercury hp syn.oil in it. I have always changed
the oil every 20hrs. The new engine did it and thats ok but I want the best oil money can buy for my new xr.
Any help on this would be great. Sorry for all the questions but I need some info on this. Thanks, Timmy Farmer.

Last edited by tfarmer; 12-28-2008 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 10:44 PM
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Looks like Amsoil is going in my B1. I use their gear and engine oil in everything else I own.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:08 AM
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Drain the gear oil completely and fill from the bottom up no need to flush but just wondering what were you going to flush with? Hopefully flushing with the new gear oil being used. Run the amsoil severe gear 75w-110 better than the amsoil 75/80w-90 marine gear oil. also Teague runs the amsoil 75-110 servere gear oil. He had a lot of input with amsoil for the devolpment. Alot of stuff today off the shelf motor oil and gear oils are not a true synthetic oil they are just group III's base oils and the additives are thrown into the mix that are counting it as a synthetic. Also I can look up what weight the merc hi-perf gear oil is I had it tested but forgot the specs. Not a very strong oil compare to others. A friend of mine is a oil chemist and a oil analysist for leading race teams around the world plus some teams in the NHRA, Nascar and motorcycle road race teams. No bull so i am well schooled in the oil game. Also the Volvo Penta syn. gear oil tested better than the merc hi-perf . Amsoil use to be one of the best about 10 years ago and back but gone down hill some what but the last 2 years are stepping it up once again. One thing it did was oxidized very easy not very good for wear protection and corrosion protection ( FYI ). Some more info one of the best motor oils that I was testing came from VP Racing the ones who make racing gas, high octane gas and nitro for the top fuel race teams. The problem is they no longer make it as of last year. It was kind of hush info in the racing fields. Also I know this is my first post here but have been in the boat biz since 1991 and around boats, bikes and drag cars my whole life. You got to start some time.

Last edited by Boats unlimited; 12-30-2008 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:19 PM
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Boats Unlimited, thanks for the info. Glad to have you on the board. As for the flush... everyone tells me I don't have to worry about it (but I would have flushed it with new Amsoil from the bottom and drained) so I'm not going to bother. As for Severe Gear Lube, I don't see that they claim it's for outdrive applications on the Amsoil webpage so I ordered the Marine 75/80-90. If I find out Severe Gear is recommended for outdrives I'll go with it next change.
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Old 12-30-2008, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Boats unlimited
Drain the gear oil completely and fill from the bottom up no need to flush but just wondering what were you going to flush with? Hopefully flushing with the new gear oil being used. Run the amsoil severe gear 75w-110 better than the amsoil 75/80w-90 marine gear oil. also Teague runs the amsoil 75-110 servere gear oil. He had a lot of input with amsoil for the devolpment. Alot of stuff today off the shelf motor oil and gear oils are not a true synthetic oil they are just group III's base oils and the additives are thrown into the mix that are counting it as a synthetic. Also I can look up what weight the merc hi-perf gear oil is I had it tested but forgot the specs. Not a very strong oil compare to others. A friend of mine is a oil chemist and a oil analysist for leading race teams around the world plus some teams in the NHRA, Nascar and motorcycle road race teams. No bull so i am well schooled in the oil game. Also the Volvo Penta syn. gear oil tested better than the merc hi-perf . Amsoil use to be one of the best about 10 years ago and back but gone down hill some what but the last 2 years are stepping it up once again. One thing it did was oxidized very easy not very good for wear protection and corrosion protection ( FYI ). Some more info one of the best motor oils that I was testing came from VP Racing the ones who make racing gas, high octane gas and nitro for the top fuel race teams. The problem is they no longer make it as of last year. It was kind of hush info in the racing fields. Also I know this is my first post here but have been in the boat biz since 1991 and around boats, bikes and drag cars my whole life. You got to start some time.
Thanks again. I would really like to know about the mercury
gear oil weight if you get a chance.
Timmy.
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:21 PM
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My idea of a simple way would be to change to new oil and run it a short time then change the oil again ...more $$ but what else is cheap in this sport? m
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:55 PM
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I switched over to 75w90 royal purple, just drained and filled from the drive.....works great !
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Old 01-01-2009, 08:38 PM
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The Merc Hi-perf gear oil is a 80w-90 weight and has a viscosity of a 30w or 40w but i do not remember and this is going off the top of my head. I will try to find it and post it for sure. I had a ton of motor and gear oils sent out for testing new and used with the same amount time on them. I filed all the reports away. As far as using a recommended gear oil that does not say marine on it i will post some info about that later. Most recommended oils are going to do a good job on stock and medium horsepower applications so if you are using a name brand sure its going to work but most likely you are not sending samples off to get tested by an oil analysis expert who does this day in and day out. Another thing I see so many pics here of peoples boats and motors using Fram oil filters. Sorry people one of the worst cheapest quality oil filters you can be using for any motor more or less a marine motor. #1 these filters are not made for higher RPMs motors unless you are using their HP filters but even then they are changed after every race or in between rounds in the racing world something non racers should have to do. #2 cut a fram filter open, cut a wix filter open, cut a Amsoil EaO filter open and then get back to me. You will throw that Fram in the trash I promise. Fram uses cardboard end caps instead of steel also the filter media is not uniform are the 2 biggest reasons among some other things which I do not want to make this a story book. If you have an engine buider or engine guy and he is using Fram oil filters he needs to do some more home work period. Like I said buy as many brands as you want cut them open at the base pull them apart and will thank me for adding some longevity to your motor. Off The shelf motor oil filters Amoils EoA and the EoA brand is important. This is one of the best. Wix is good and Baldwin not bad either. Mr. Dock Holiday I hope you are not using those Fram oil filters on your new motors? your old motors said Fram all over it. I SEE NOW WIX good for you. Anyways NICE MAKE - OVER a job well done. I did not send in Royal Purple gear oil but I did send in their motor oil. It was just middle of the road not bad but not strong either. Also not a full syn either falls mostly under a conventional oil. Their Racing oil is different but you would need to change it every 10 to 25 hours at the least because it does not use a full additive package for extended use (FYI ) Yes I know this my second post so most of you 6,000 posters are going to throw that out there. I have lurked on this sight for years and years, met the first start up/owner of OSO at an APBA offshore race many years ago. Just because you have 6,000 post does make you an expert about anything. I see this thrown around here alot also about someone who has very low posts.

Last edited by Boats unlimited; 01-02-2009 at 01:23 AM.
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