Mercruiser II TR & TRS Parts Availability
01-11-2009, 06:31 AM
#12
-Just to clarify, the Konrad 540 PRS (Performance Replacement System) for the Merc TRS retails for 11,635.00 This includes the Konrad Gimbal assembly & trim rams.
Back in 2003, I had re-powered with fresh 750 hp blower motors in my Cigarette Top Gun. a After the re-power I had exploded 6 TRS drives that summer. Feb '04 I had installed a pair of Konrad 540's, since '04, I've ran 5 full seasons (380 hrs) with zero issues, the gears look like new. Countless others have enjoyed the same success.
DD, I know you like to sell your used TRS stuff but you just can't compare the Konrad to the TRS, they are warranteed to handle 800 hp and they do with ease. The Konrad is also 2" shorter than the deep TRS. Most installations gain 3-5 mph on the top end.
www.konradmarine.com
Kurt
Back in 2003, I had re-powered with fresh 750 hp blower motors in my Cigarette Top Gun. a After the re-power I had exploded 6 TRS drives that summer. Feb '04 I had installed a pair of Konrad 540's, since '04, I've ran 5 full seasons (380 hrs) with zero issues, the gears look like new. Countless others have enjoyed the same success.
DD, I know you like to sell your used TRS stuff but you just can't compare the Konrad to the TRS, they are warranteed to handle 800 hp and they do with ease. The Konrad is also 2" shorter than the deep TRS. Most installations gain 3-5 mph on the top end.
www.konradmarine.com
Kurt
Last edited by Biggus; 01-11-2009 at 06:35 AM.
01-12-2009, 03:45 PM
#13
RIPSTA Racing Team
VIP Member
I have a pair of TRS gimbels complete with inner plates, exhaust block offs, trim cylinders and pumps in like new condition, fresh water only for $1000. each if anyone is interested.
01-12-2009, 04:52 PM
#15
Registered
Platinum Member
I have everything except the steering for 4K. It is a friends shop in FL, so I don't have pics, but they are ready to run.
Gimbles, trims, drives, inner plates. I can throw in the merctrans at that price, or upgrade you to fresh 72C's built for whatever rating you want for $700 plus the cost of the rebuilds/upgrades.
I even have a complete set of internals for both sides that have been sitting on my shelf in a box for 2 years since my last TRS boat. I can add thos in for another few dollars.
I have some bellhousings and flex plates somewhere also I think.
Interested? Call me at 832.439.5304
Gimbles, trims, drives, inner plates. I can throw in the merctrans at that price, or upgrade you to fresh 72C's built for whatever rating you want for $700 plus the cost of the rebuilds/upgrades.
I even have a complete set of internals for both sides that have been sitting on my shelf in a box for 2 years since my last TRS boat. I can add thos in for another few dollars.
I have some bellhousings and flex plates somewhere also I think.
Interested? Call me at 832.439.5304
10-17-2009, 02:09 PM
#16
T.hese R.eally S.uck !
My friend did the Konrad Conversion years ago. No more worries, Kurt was so helpful to come out several times and go for a ride with us and get drives spaced right etc.
Before this we went through many drives and transmissions, Merc Trans, Borg etc. tried shimmed lowers etc. In the long run it's cheaper to go Konrad and be done. Compared to the cost of #6's or Arneson's it's the best value and a bolt in and go replacement !
If you keep trying to go TRS you will always be broke because you might as well flush the money down the toilet, because in the end you will have a bunch of worthless broken junk to sell to someone else with no money.
If you must go TRS use Spedmaster lowers.
When the drives pop they usually wipe out the trans. If you think throwing a $3500 trans on the scrap pile is reasonable and economical you need to see a shrink ! Then again, most cheapies won't pay for a real trans. and wonder why they keep blowing up. The answer is not always easy to swallow. You can't get something for nothing it costs... and cost more again and again if not done right.
We don't have any blown up Konrad stuff laying around ! How could that happen ?
Before this we went through many drives and transmissions, Merc Trans, Borg etc. tried shimmed lowers etc. In the long run it's cheaper to go Konrad and be done. Compared to the cost of #6's or Arneson's it's the best value and a bolt in and go replacement !
If you keep trying to go TRS you will always be broke because you might as well flush the money down the toilet, because in the end you will have a bunch of worthless broken junk to sell to someone else with no money.
If you must go TRS use Spedmaster lowers.
When the drives pop they usually wipe out the trans. If you think throwing a $3500 trans on the scrap pile is reasonable and economical you need to see a shrink ! Then again, most cheapies won't pay for a real trans. and wonder why they keep blowing up. The answer is not always easy to swallow. You can't get something for nothing it costs... and cost more again and again if not done right.
We don't have any blown up Konrad stuff laying around ! How could that happen ?
10-21-2009, 11:53 AM
#17
Registered
iTrader: (7)
I have TRS's that have less than 350 hours on them and have run behind 454/330's. Recently I built some pretty stout 496's and plan to run them with the same drives. What are the do's and dont's to make these last respectively. I plan to purchase some Konrads down the road however are not in the budget right now. I am always pretty careful on the re-entry however outside of that what other precautions should I take.
Any suggestions or advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
John
Any suggestions or advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
John
10-21-2009, 11:36 PM
#18
Trs
Try to stay away from re-entry, meaning don't do what's in your Avatar pic.
Avoid hole shots. Ease into the throttles, gradually to full rpm.
Avoid hitting bottom ! Change / check fluid in drives more often. Take it easy until you go with the Konrads.
The LH drive blew up more often for us (2 LH for every rH) it could have just been weight balance of boat and that side touching down first.
The truth is The damage is subtle, it may seem that you are getting away with abuse, all with alot of thrills adrenaline and excitement almost like a junkie on drugs. Hole shots wake jumping, etc . Might just as well be amphetamines, lines, base hits, etc .
What is happening is the gears especially in the lower are getting tiny stress cracks from deformation, strain and impact loads. The bearings are also suffering from brinelling, bearing damage makes bearings as well as gears heat up due to tolerances being closed up from expansion. The gear oil will also carburize (ever see gears that look black)
Everything will seem happy and you'll be elated until just Idling across the bay a drive locks up because a gear decided to go through the case out of no where for no seemingly logical reason (other than previous abuse)
Then a Transmission gets tweaked bad when drive locks up. (Usually the planetaries planet) Hopefully U-joints don't break and destroy Bellhousing etc. which has sank boats.
It's just too risky to not baby it. The speedmaster lowers are better mainly because they have alot of torrington style roller bearings lined up and keep propshaft from deflecting alowing gears to handle loads better.
The props that you run can also get you in trouble. 4 Bladers may not give you enough prop slip and may torque load the lowers . I'd stay with the 3 Bladers .
We had 2 454 330's in the boat with stock Trs and tried to make a go of it with 572's .
I hate to sound harsh and tell people to spend money they aint got. I just wouldn't wish all the problems we had, on even someone that I hate !
In the middle of the summer what does anyone do, they pop a drive ? Get another and go break it again !
After a few times it gets really costly.
I really get sick and disgusted with those that think it's cool to blow up a drive because" my motor is so powerful" that kind of thinking is bunch of mental masturbation. The truth is your asking a "boy" drive to do a man's job. More than 550 Hp is alot to feed a 20 year old weak drive. Take it easy or expect the worse. Otherwise fun turns into grief Quick , Fast, and in a Hurry ! BBB
Avoid hole shots. Ease into the throttles, gradually to full rpm.
Avoid hitting bottom ! Change / check fluid in drives more often. Take it easy until you go with the Konrads.
The LH drive blew up more often for us (2 LH for every rH) it could have just been weight balance of boat and that side touching down first.
The truth is The damage is subtle, it may seem that you are getting away with abuse, all with alot of thrills adrenaline and excitement almost like a junkie on drugs. Hole shots wake jumping, etc . Might just as well be amphetamines, lines, base hits, etc .
What is happening is the gears especially in the lower are getting tiny stress cracks from deformation, strain and impact loads. The bearings are also suffering from brinelling, bearing damage makes bearings as well as gears heat up due to tolerances being closed up from expansion. The gear oil will also carburize (ever see gears that look black)
Everything will seem happy and you'll be elated until just Idling across the bay a drive locks up because a gear decided to go through the case out of no where for no seemingly logical reason (other than previous abuse)
Then a Transmission gets tweaked bad when drive locks up. (Usually the planetaries planet) Hopefully U-joints don't break and destroy Bellhousing etc. which has sank boats.
It's just too risky to not baby it. The speedmaster lowers are better mainly because they have alot of torrington style roller bearings lined up and keep propshaft from deflecting alowing gears to handle loads better.
The props that you run can also get you in trouble. 4 Bladers may not give you enough prop slip and may torque load the lowers . I'd stay with the 3 Bladers .
We had 2 454 330's in the boat with stock Trs and tried to make a go of it with 572's .
I hate to sound harsh and tell people to spend money they aint got. I just wouldn't wish all the problems we had, on even someone that I hate !
In the middle of the summer what does anyone do, they pop a drive ? Get another and go break it again !
After a few times it gets really costly.
I really get sick and disgusted with those that think it's cool to blow up a drive because" my motor is so powerful" that kind of thinking is bunch of mental masturbation. The truth is your asking a "boy" drive to do a man's job. More than 550 Hp is alot to feed a 20 year old weak drive. Take it easy or expect the worse. Otherwise fun turns into grief Quick , Fast, and in a Hurry ! BBB
10-22-2009, 05:43 AM
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Cin, Oh
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I'm ready to do the switch. Some one need the TRS's both with everything they need. You can even help take them out so you can get what you need. Some one offer me some money.
