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Old 09-19-2009, 07:19 PM
  #21  
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I recommend the first 5 hrs run easy.. Let it loosen up and let the gears break in. Then drain the metal out and keep it easy for a while. Change the oil after another 10hrs. No long WOT runs. The gears should be broken in by 25hrs.. Drain it again and then go to a regular schedule.. 25-50hrs.. what ever the oil looks like. If at 25 it looks clean.. go longer, etc.

But easy the first 5-10hrs.. When you spin the prop and it spins free.. it is broken in..

Hope this helps.
Dick
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 07DominatorSS
Your statement doesn't make too much sense when it comes to synthetics. You say they'll drop temperature, however metal contact will increase? With more metal contact, more heat would be created. I've never seen, in my 20 years of business, a petroleum product out perform a high quality synthetic. If I were you, I'd do my testing again.
No need to test again... Kind of a rude post on your part.
I said the temperature will drop with a synthetic. Yes this is from lack of friction. Synthetics are very efficient that way.

I also said MOMENTARY metal to metal contact will increase under very high pressures (PSI). (Like when the prop comes out of the water and then suddenly re-enters for a split second)
NO LIQUID will stay between two pieces of metal if the PSI is high enough. (It squeezes out, even synthetics)
Solid lubricants (Like Molybdenum or graphite) found in the HP Merc lube will get "stuck" in between the metal and keep the contact/wear to a minimum during these high PSI times.

These times only occur for a split second and do not generate much heat. They do however cause wear on the tooth face.

Also, most sythetic oils are 40-95% petrolium products...
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