Imco 3" Extension Box
#1
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Imco 3" Extension Box
Curious if you have to reglass transom or if the inner and outer assemblies go in stock location? I know everyones thougths on center of gravity but with the 3" extension box I will have the same x and cog as the newer ones.
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This is a direct replacement although you do know you have to raise your engine when doing this correct? They're box has the -3" raised built into it in order to have your alignment right you'll have to raise the motor accordingly. If you wanted to glass in the transom go with a neutral box. Then just raise everything.
#3
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if your talking about the 12" standoff box with the 3" rise, Irishtornado is correct, everything will bolt right up, but you have to raise the engine 3" to match the standoff box.
#5
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My understandind is you can also use the Stellings adjustable box in the neutral position without raising the engines but even with that it raises the "X" 3/4"-7/8".
#7
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I do. My boat is a 1997 and has almost 500hrs with them. Originally it had 750hp blower motors for the first 100hrs. It has had 502mpi's since then. The drives are the original 1.36's and have not had a failure.
#8
RIPSTA Racing Team
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That's what I asked him in a pm. I haven't heard any Neg issues about Stellings boxes either. I'm installing them this season for the first time and would like to know of any problem if any so I know what to look for developing. I'm gonna try the neutral position first with -2 Imcos from std. Bravo 1's and no boxes so it should be quite a difference. Sorry to hi jack the thread a little. I would like to hear of any prolems period on extension boxes.
#9
Charter Member # 55
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The issue is that with Stellings, you don't use a regular drive coupler to absorb any hard shocks from air time and a missed pull back on the throttle. Stellings does make a "drive saver" that can be used. I do not have drive savers on my boat.
#10
RIPSTA Racing Team
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I see. I'll be using a set of driveline bellhousings with a pair of Bravo couplers and then shafts back to the drives. We of course had to move the engines forward about a foot and a half and use a rear engine plate for mounting so this shouldn't be an issue. I had heard the solid hub was hard on drives. I think that problem we have solved, Thanks Griff.