Is a bravo good enough???
08-21-2010, 03:45 AM
#21
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If you seriously want something that you can run and not break, and dont want to have to completely change your entire setup by going with an Arneson, because there is no denying that they are pretty much unbreakable however they require alot of dialing in for some boats, I would go with an Imco SCX. There are guys running very big power through them without a single issue thus far. It will bolt up to the HP transom assembly with a helmet change and a new gimble ring. The hot setup is the SCX upper and an SC lower, which you can find plenty of them used. Figure $10k for the upper and the accessories for it and another $3-4k for the lower.
08-21-2010, 07:43 AM
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I've seen used Bmaxs for $3k before. That was about two years ago at a swap meet in s.fl. Dunno the condition of those drives, probably needed rebuilding. Since you are only talking 600 hp, not sure you have to pony up for an IMCO even they sound awesome. If your're thinking 800 hp, that is a different story and no longer sounds like a reliable family boat... Not exactly a no brainer to build a reliable 800 hp motor, takes a lot of smart building to get there and it stay together.
08-21-2010, 12:50 PM
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Now that's more like my kinda price Rexx! I've got no intentions to go above 600hp, want it to stay largely stock and reliable. Just need enough poke to get to about 80.
Wish I just had a couple of promaxes on the back now!!
What's the cheapest Bmax anyone knows of then??
Cheers, James
Wish I just had a couple of promaxes on the back now!!
What's the cheapest Bmax anyone knows of then??
Cheers, James
08-21-2010, 02:33 PM
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Just found out about Volvo DPX drives, looks like the answer to my prayer, and duo prop to boot for a single engine install!
Trouble is, I can't find one. Anyone know where I might get one? What kinda price do they go for?
Cheers, James
Trouble is, I can't find one. Anyone know where I might get one? What kinda price do they go for?
Cheers, James
08-22-2010, 02:40 AM
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08-22-2010, 02:51 AM
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Hiya Paul,
Well, I was chatting to a guy in the UK who knows his stuff a touch and who currently runs a pair of DPR's.
From his advice and everything I've seen so far, the DPX is all but bomb proof up to about 600hp, and the DPR is pretty close. DPX was designed for petrols up to 600hp, DPR is their current drive for BIG diesels. Both are duo prop too.
In my situation, I'd be best with a DPX really, but parts are getting hard to find now. There's also a limited selection of props for them. Either drive will do though, and the fact they're duo prop will give me much better stability and acceleration.
In your situation, I'd probably go with the DPR drives as they're current model, so easier to get bits for, and still more than capable of taking the power you need!
To cut a long story short, do a search on here for 'volvo DPX' or 'volvo DPR' and look at all the positive comments about them and how little trouble people have!
Then, you'll join me in realising they're all but impossible to find!
James
Well, I was chatting to a guy in the UK who knows his stuff a touch and who currently runs a pair of DPR's.
From his advice and everything I've seen so far, the DPX is all but bomb proof up to about 600hp, and the DPR is pretty close. DPX was designed for petrols up to 600hp, DPR is their current drive for BIG diesels. Both are duo prop too.
In my situation, I'd be best with a DPX really, but parts are getting hard to find now. There's also a limited selection of props for them. Either drive will do though, and the fact they're duo prop will give me much better stability and acceleration.
In your situation, I'd probably go with the DPR drives as they're current model, so easier to get bits for, and still more than capable of taking the power you need!
To cut a long story short, do a search on here for 'volvo DPX' or 'volvo DPR' and look at all the positive comments about them and how little trouble people have!
Then, you'll join me in realising they're all but impossible to find!
James
08-22-2010, 09:01 AM
#27
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The Imco SC's should hold up to 600 HP pretty well. No matter what you need to do the throttle work while catching air. One thing good about the SC's is uses XR gears, always available and the uppers are rebuildable with replaceable steel towers unlike the reg B1's and XR's. They bolt right up where with the SCX's you need to change the gimble bell. The SC lowers are strong and from what I am reading the SCX lowers take more power to turn. Any surface drive or SSM requires a transmission and re-rigging your boat, plus the expence of purchasing all the componants. IMO your least expensive way to get the strongest drive for the least $ is the Imco SC. No matter what, you will blow it apart if your not working the sticks. Just my 2ct's and I'm going thru it as we speak.
PS Didn't B MAX go under or sell?
Volvo's hard to find parts and cost big $ if you can find them.
PS Didn't B MAX go under or sell?
Volvo's hard to find parts and cost big $ if you can find them.
08-22-2010, 09:09 AM
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hi james i am looking right now for the volvo my volvo drive was a 290 duo prop running the bigist ss props volo done paid $700 when it was $2 to the £. over here volvo wanted £1100 the drive you are looking at is a much newer drive i am gessing if you need to get in touch with me re any poker runs comeing up my #is 01268 693564
08-22-2010, 10:31 AM
#29
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James,
The Volo duoprop, how fast has anyone run them. Reason I ask is I know with the B3 top end is limited, they just don't go through the water fast at all.
The Bmax upper is solid, the lower uses Merc gears and a different vertical shaft arrangement, I believe it is longer than the Merc, but not sure.
It would be the same situation for an Imco SCX/SC, accept the the SCX could use a stock Merc lower or the SC lower. They have a special coupler to make that happen.
Another thing to consider is the cost of upper gear sets on the two drives. I believe the Bmax is more than the SCX but quite a bit.
In your situation, with the blower motor and not being able to tolerate a failure, I think you should move up to something more solid than the B1. The B&M or Whipple blowers will produce more torque at 3000rpm than a Vortec or Procharger. That is the area that loads the drive the most and as ICDEDPPL found out, the helical gears couldnt handle the torque his 600SC was putting out.
If you can find a good set of XR gears, these days, that would be the next best step, economically. But finding a set that are good is the issue. Not sure if Merc has done anything to help the tooth snapping problem of the last 3-4yrs.
Trying to solve this problem cheaply may be the toughest part. Each Bravo you break, will bring you closer to the cost of the better drives..
Dick
The Volo duoprop, how fast has anyone run them. Reason I ask is I know with the B3 top end is limited, they just don't go through the water fast at all.
The Bmax upper is solid, the lower uses Merc gears and a different vertical shaft arrangement, I believe it is longer than the Merc, but not sure.
It would be the same situation for an Imco SCX/SC, accept the the SCX could use a stock Merc lower or the SC lower. They have a special coupler to make that happen.
Another thing to consider is the cost of upper gear sets on the two drives. I believe the Bmax is more than the SCX but quite a bit.
In your situation, with the blower motor and not being able to tolerate a failure, I think you should move up to something more solid than the B1. The B&M or Whipple blowers will produce more torque at 3000rpm than a Vortec or Procharger. That is the area that loads the drive the most and as ICDEDPPL found out, the helical gears couldnt handle the torque his 600SC was putting out.
If you can find a good set of XR gears, these days, that would be the next best step, economically. But finding a set that are good is the issue. Not sure if Merc has done anything to help the tooth snapping problem of the last 3-4yrs.
Trying to solve this problem cheaply may be the toughest part. Each Bravo you break, will bring you closer to the cost of the better drives..
Dick
08-22-2010, 12:30 PM
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Any surface drive or SSM requires a transmission and re-rigging your boat, plus the expence of purchasing all the componants. IMO your least expensive way to get the strongest drive for the least $ is the Imco SC. No matter what, you will blow it apart if your not working the sticks. Just my 2ct's and I'm going thru it as we speak.
hi james i am looking right now for the volvo my volvo drive was a 290 duo prop running the bigist ss props volo done paid $700 when it was $2 to the £. over here volvo wanted £1100 the drive you are looking at is a much newer drive i am gessing if you need to get in touch with me re any poker runs comeing up my #is 01268 693564
James,
The Volo duoprop, how fast has anyone run them. Reason I ask is I know with the B3 top end is limited, they just don't go through the water fast at all.
The Bmax upper is solid, the lower uses Merc gears and a different vertical shaft arrangement, I believe it is longer than the Merc, but not sure.
It would be the same situation for an Imco SCX/SC, accept the the SCX could use a stock Merc lower or the SC lower. They have a special coupler to make that happen.
Another thing to consider is the cost of upper gear sets on the two drives. I believe the Bmax is more than the SCX but quite a bit.
In your situation, with the blower motor and not being able to tolerate a failure, I think you should move up to something more solid than the B1. The B&M or Whipple blowers will produce more torque at 3000rpm than a Vortec or Procharger. That is the area that loads the drive the most and as ICDEDPPL found out, the helical gears couldnt handle the torque his 600SC was putting out.
If you can find a good set of XR gears, these days, that would be the next best step, economically. But finding a set that are good is the issue. Not sure if Merc has done anything to help the tooth snapping problem of the last 3-4yrs.
Trying to solve this problem cheaply may be the toughest part. Each Bravo you break, will bring you closer to the cost of the better drives..
Dick
The Volo duoprop, how fast has anyone run them. Reason I ask is I know with the B3 top end is limited, they just don't go through the water fast at all.
The Bmax upper is solid, the lower uses Merc gears and a different vertical shaft arrangement, I believe it is longer than the Merc, but not sure.
It would be the same situation for an Imco SCX/SC, accept the the SCX could use a stock Merc lower or the SC lower. They have a special coupler to make that happen.
Another thing to consider is the cost of upper gear sets on the two drives. I believe the Bmax is more than the SCX but quite a bit.
In your situation, with the blower motor and not being able to tolerate a failure, I think you should move up to something more solid than the B1. The B&M or Whipple blowers will produce more torque at 3000rpm than a Vortec or Procharger. That is the area that loads the drive the most and as ICDEDPPL found out, the helical gears couldnt handle the torque his 600SC was putting out.
If you can find a good set of XR gears, these days, that would be the next best step, economically. But finding a set that are good is the issue. Not sure if Merc has done anything to help the tooth snapping problem of the last 3-4yrs.
Trying to solve this problem cheaply may be the toughest part. Each Bravo you break, will bring you closer to the cost of the better drives..
Dick
The main issue I have is that having a drive break really isn't an option to me like it is in the US. Our tides run at 12 knots plus (15mph!!), and it's very rocky and rough here. If i lost all drive, me and my family could be wrecked on rocks in seconds, with no-one around to help.
A friend of mine with much the same setup but slightly less power just snapped teeth off the gears in a brand new bravo x drive, so that doesn't fill me with confidence in their gears!
The volvo DPX has been known to run past 100mph and doesn't seem to have the limitations of the B3.
Right now I'm very tempted to try a surface drive with rocker tabs and a little fin on the bottom of the skeg to give bow lift, that combination seems to work quite well for others, and at least I'd know the drive isn't gonna break! I can get a lancing fixed surface drive here in the UK relatively cheaply.
James
