What drive to use?
10-10-2010, 06:23 AM
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What drive to use?
I have recently bought a 2004 Daytona with 2 496 HO's and Bravo drives. The boat will run mid 90's with gas and 2 people and I have got 98mph almost empty of fuel and on a cool day, but compared to my other single engine boats (a Nordic and a 234 Edge Eliminator) the boat does not pull hard in midrange and is slow out of the hole. It has IMCO set back boxes, but appears to be stock other than that. I first thought I would just drop a couple of Whipple’s on this and be easy on the drives, but after some research, felt this was just a waste of money. I am now building two new 632 Dart motors and hope for 750hp each and am very confused from all these posts as to which way to go for drives. Everything from Konrads, IMCO, Arneson, Teague, BMax, be easy of stock, and just don't drive the boat much at all seem to be the consensus here. Does anybody have any advice for my boat/power combo that will produce a fairly rugged ride. I do not mind going through the drives once a year or even keeping a spare drive at the lake for emergencies, but I hate being towed in. Any solid advice. Also, any idea of price on the recommending drives. Between these two engines, the anticipated cost of the drives and rigging, I almost wish I had bought a 30’ with # 6 drives and big power out of the box, instead of my plan of beefing up a stock power 28’. Thanks for any help you can offer!
10-10-2010, 10:04 PM
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My Teague XR is rated for around 900hp im putting about 600hp through it no problems, if you hammer the throttle out of the hole i think you could tear up any drive. Then you will have some guys putting 1000hp on a bravo 1 and not having any problems.
10-11-2010, 05:25 AM
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What Drive to Use
I had considered both the IMCO or the Teague drives, but I read many negative comments about both here in these forums. One long thread focused on the IMCO drive causing a loss of top end speed in the tune of 7-8 mph and the Teague drive not holding up. I don't mean to sound stupid, but unless I am WOT my boat just about won't plane. Do I need a complete new drive or can I beef up the upper or lower. Also, I read a lot about being easy on a drive. What exactly does everyone mean? Thanks
10-11-2010, 08:18 PM
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DLJ,
You won't need full throttle to get on plane with your new motors.
Peak torque is what kills drives probably around 4K rpm's
Being easy on applying throttle coming on plane and during acceleration will be easier on the gears.
If you get air and the props break loose if you don't throttle back you have just toasted your bravo.
Increasing the amount of blades and increasing pitch will be harder on drives.
The Teague drive is better than an XR.
It seems initially the SCX with the SC lower looks to be a winner. The SCX lower is not usuable to most due to hydrodynamic issues.
The BMax looks better all the time now with the new owners.
Conrad is a good product but you must use a transmission which will require rerigging.
Arneson seems awesome will require a lot of rerigging.
Cost of all these is high. Consider overall value of the boat when considering this, you will not get this back on sale if you need to.
Teague, call and ask. IMCO SCX/sc 12K, Helmet 800, B-Max 15K,
Conrad more than these plus rigging, $$$, Arnesons, don't know accurately but 20K plus rigging would be close.
If I were you I would keep your boat as is for baseline testing. Put your new power in, up your pitch in whatever your using by 4 or 6 and be easy on it. BBlades has a demo prop program. See how handles and planes. Call Eliminator and ask what set up works on the 30. Then change to the drive of your choice most likely SCX or Bmax. With the data you have you will be able to better predict what size lower to use. You will need to spend about 30K plus to get to a higher level of reliablility that unfortunately may not be bulletproof............. The first time you feel the power you will think it is worth it. Eric
You won't need full throttle to get on plane with your new motors.
Peak torque is what kills drives probably around 4K rpm's
Being easy on applying throttle coming on plane and during acceleration will be easier on the gears.
If you get air and the props break loose if you don't throttle back you have just toasted your bravo.
Increasing the amount of blades and increasing pitch will be harder on drives.
The Teague drive is better than an XR.
It seems initially the SCX with the SC lower looks to be a winner. The SCX lower is not usuable to most due to hydrodynamic issues.
The BMax looks better all the time now with the new owners.
Conrad is a good product but you must use a transmission which will require rerigging.
Arneson seems awesome will require a lot of rerigging.
Cost of all these is high. Consider overall value of the boat when considering this, you will not get this back on sale if you need to.
Teague, call and ask. IMCO SCX/sc 12K, Helmet 800, B-Max 15K,
Conrad more than these plus rigging, $$$, Arnesons, don't know accurately but 20K plus rigging would be close.
If I were you I would keep your boat as is for baseline testing. Put your new power in, up your pitch in whatever your using by 4 or 6 and be easy on it. BBlades has a demo prop program. See how handles and planes. Call Eliminator and ask what set up works on the 30. Then change to the drive of your choice most likely SCX or Bmax. With the data you have you will be able to better predict what size lower to use. You will need to spend about 30K plus to get to a higher level of reliablility that unfortunately may not be bulletproof............. The first time you feel the power you will think it is worth it. Eric
10-11-2010, 09:37 PM
#8
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DLJ,
You won't need full throttle to get on plane with your new motors.
Peak torque is what kills drives probably around 4K rpm's
Being easy on applying throttle coming on plane and during acceleration will be easier on the gears.
If you get air and the props break loose if you don't throttle back you have just toasted your bravo.
Increasing the amount of blades and increasing pitch will be harder on drives.
The Teague drive is better than an XR.
It seems initially the SCX with the SC lower looks to be a winner. The SCX lower is not usuable to most due to hydrodynamic issues.
The BMax looks better all the time now with the new owners.
Conrad is a good product but you must use a transmission which will require rerigging.
Arneson seems awesome will require a lot of rerigging.
Cost of all these is high. Consider overall value of the boat when considering this, you will not get this back on sale if you need to.
Teague, call and ask. IMCO SCX/sc 12K, Helmet 800, B-Max 15K,
Conrad more than these plus rigging, $$$, Arnesons, don't know accurately but 20K plus rigging would be close.
If I were you I would keep your boat as is for baseline testing. Put your new power in, up your pitch in whatever your using by 4 or 6 and be easy on it. BBlades has a demo prop program. See how handles and planes. Call Eliminator and ask what set up works on the 30. Then change to the drive of your choice most likely SCX or Bmax. With the data you have you will be able to better predict what size lower to use. You will need to spend about 30K plus to get to a higher level of reliablility that unfortunately may not be bulletproof............. The first time you feel the power you will think it is worth it. Eric
You won't need full throttle to get on plane with your new motors.
Peak torque is what kills drives probably around 4K rpm's
Being easy on applying throttle coming on plane and during acceleration will be easier on the gears.
If you get air and the props break loose if you don't throttle back you have just toasted your bravo.
Increasing the amount of blades and increasing pitch will be harder on drives.
The Teague drive is better than an XR.
It seems initially the SCX with the SC lower looks to be a winner. The SCX lower is not usuable to most due to hydrodynamic issues.
The BMax looks better all the time now with the new owners.
Conrad is a good product but you must use a transmission which will require rerigging.
Arneson seems awesome will require a lot of rerigging.
Cost of all these is high. Consider overall value of the boat when considering this, you will not get this back on sale if you need to.
Teague, call and ask. IMCO SCX/sc 12K, Helmet 800, B-Max 15K,
Conrad more than these plus rigging, $$$, Arnesons, don't know accurately but 20K plus rigging would be close.
If I were you I would keep your boat as is for baseline testing. Put your new power in, up your pitch in whatever your using by 4 or 6 and be easy on it. BBlades has a demo prop program. See how handles and planes. Call Eliminator and ask what set up works on the 30. Then change to the drive of your choice most likely SCX or Bmax. With the data you have you will be able to better predict what size lower to use. You will need to spend about 30K plus to get to a higher level of reliablility that unfortunately may not be bulletproof............. The first time you feel the power you will think it is worth it. Eric
Just something to think of.
__________________
Arneson Surface Drives www.arneson-industries.com
Arneson Surface Drives www.arneson-industries.com
10-11-2010, 09:48 PM
#9
From what I gather & I have yet to be quoted an actual Bravo to Arneson conversion price. Arneson would be my choice. The Imco SCX looked to be a great alternative at 1st, but it has it's issues that are becoming more & more every day as more make it to market.
10-12-2010, 12:08 AM
#10
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I would say I lost a bit of MPH not sure how much because I freshened and beefed it up a bit about the same time. I have thought of going with a shorty.
Rated to 14000lb 950 HP and TQ last I looked. About a $15,000 bolt on investment and worth every dime. I could break a Bravo by hitting the trim button.
You said you dont like to be towed in! That's why I run it.
