alpha one with a 454, how many hours will i get?
#11
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well, fender jack, that would be a good idea if i planned on keeping the 454, but like i said earlier i plan to drop this 502 into by late summer and i know that will tear the alpha to shreads. i just would like to be out on the water if possible, a 454 in this boat will still be plenty of fun, plus i got the whole bravo xr with gimble for 3600 shipped, so for that price i might as well keep it. im a younger guy on a limited budget, so i dont have the funds to do it all at once, but step by step this boat will get their.
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Alpha 1 aftermarket options
I'm going thru the same thing - alpha 1 gen 1 on a 454. I haven't been able to find the proper aftermarket drop in drive - it should be a 1.32:1 ratio unit - sterndrive engineering offers a 1.47:1 version, but with no warranty. SE calls it their SE106. However, I bought the boat with an SE106 - I'm assuming it's the 1.47 version. that said, it lasted me only 1 full season - probably 3 or so before me, so it lasted the duration if it had the warranty. You can get the mercruiser 1.32 rebuild kit, which includes the gears and everything elso for $800 ish. So worst case: buy the SE106 complete unit for $1295 plus the rebuilt kit for $800, and put 4 hours in the rebuild, and you have a 'new' alpha 1 that will last properly. BTW, I am not sure why the 1.32 is called that - the gear ratio is actually 1.25:1 (the gears are 20 tooth and 16 tooth). If anyone could illuminate me on that, I'd appreciate it.
I have a heavy boat - about 7500lbs - for this setup. If I had the cash, I'd switch over to a Bravo 1 or 3, but that is an extensive swap, requiring the motor to come out, etc. I am currently wrestling with the choise - just put in an SE106 1.47 for $1300, or hope that my upper case is good and get the rebuild kit (which will require a new prop), or get a new upper case and do the rebuild.
I have a heavy boat - about 7500lbs - for this setup. If I had the cash, I'd switch over to a Bravo 1 or 3, but that is an extensive swap, requiring the motor to come out, etc. I am currently wrestling with the choise - just put in an SE106 1.47 for $1300, or hope that my upper case is good and get the rebuild kit (which will require a new prop), or get a new upper case and do the rebuild.
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Lighter boat equals longer life
What's the weight of your 22 pachanga? What ratio? I deal with gearboxes in my work world, and the rule is the lower the output shaft rpm, the smaller the allowable input motor, and it's almost a linear relationship. So you may be running a similar motor, but a higher ratio, which means your prop is spinning faster. I'm thinking I should be running a higher ratio, which seems to go against convention, but running a smaller prop that can spin faster, moving less water with each rotation. My top speed is much lower than yours (265 Sedan Bridge), probably half, so I could run the same prop as you but spin more slowly, but that would kill the drive. Ugh - I don't think I have all the pieces of this puzzle! But I'm not sure who does.