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IMCO SCX Problem

Old 10-28-2011, 08:18 PM
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i fill to the vent hole fill the resivor to the max mark after a couple hours it will settle down and when it cools fill resivor back to max mark it works for me
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by articfriends
I remember the early B-max drives having porosity problems too, I am sure these housings are probably cast in Mexico or something . These things happen, Smitty
That's correct.. Casting process was improved by the Bravoshop's new owner.

Originally Posted by Advantage 575
Installed new shift cables. I even switched the drives around and still one shifts hard. Dave at IMCO said they have had problems with shifting
Intersting, BMax had the same issue a long time ago when they first came out. Ron Bender did a lot of R&D to fix it.


Originally Posted by racinfever
There seems to be a lot of controversy over how this drive is to be filled. It's my understanding is it's to be filled to the vent hole only and the reservoir is strickly for expansion.
Interesting concept....same as the Bmax....

The whole drive is an interesting concept... almost the same concept as a bmax.

Last edited by Panther; 10-28-2011 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by weldcrane
i fill to the vent hole fill the resivor to the max mark after a couple hours it will settle down and when it cools fill resivor back to max mark it works for me
That's the method I was using at first but after running the boat hard, the oil in the bottle settled into filling the top of the drive completely hydrolocking the drive and pushing the oil out the pinion seal.
My boat is a 38' Fountain so extended WOT is not uncommon.
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Old 10-29-2011, 04:58 AM
  #24  
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As you may have seen in the other thread I started, I am running an SCX upper and SC lower. Ran it for 2 seasons by filling the drive fluid to half way up the bottle. Never had a problem. Are you guys saying that with a complete SCX ( which I will be running next season ) you should only fill the drive to the upper sight plug, leaving the bottle empty? I dont like the sounds of that.
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:23 AM
  #25  
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So how do you know if it goes down.. Do you put some lube in the reservoir so you can see it go down if you are losing some? Or do you pull the top vent to check it all the time?

I filled mine up to the vent hole and installed it and then continued till I got a little in the reservoir and then topped off the reserviour to the max line. It has stayed there since then. I only have a few hours on it, and not any WOT.. Just blasts up and down the rpm scale while breaking everything in. Wont know more till the water gets soft again in the spring, more than likely, then I can get out and run it harder, if I can hang on to it.. The boat and I like the new motor!!!

Dick
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TRL505
Approx 4k for a pair...but this depends on extent of work etc. They are pretty quick on turnaround too. Guys have been doing this for 30 yrs...and have done almost all the lowers on every record setting/bad azz boat you can think of.
Ditto have seen there work and results are outstanding
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Gadgets
So how do you know if it goes down.. Do you put some lube in the reservoir so you can see it go down if you are losing some? Or do you pull the top vent to check it all the time?

I filled mine up to the vent hole and installed it and then continued till I got a little in the reservoir and then topped off the reserviour to the max line. It has stayed there since then. I only have a few hours on it, and not any WOT.. Just blasts up and down the rpm scale while breaking everything in. Wont know more till the water gets soft again in the spring, more than likely, then I can get out and run it harder, if I can hang on to it.. The boat and I like the new motor!!!

Dick
You are over filling your drive, & will damage pinion seal.it must have expanion room in top of drive. Per DAVE @ IMCO Please read manual
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:10 PM
  #28  
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Not sure if the SCX needs this done but when running a BMax you remove the check valve from the helmet... It allows the oil to leave and return to the drive easier.

If the SCX is an expansion tank just like the BMax you can find out easily by opening the hatch and stickin your head inside as soon as you come off plane. The fluid level will be higher than when you started.

The BMax will rise a good 2-3" in the expansion tank and then settle back down after idling for a few minutes. The reason the oil rises is because the gearset is much bigger than a Bravo (5 inches) and needs to expand when it gets airated.

Last edited by Panther; 10-29-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:25 PM
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The SCX helmet comes with a check valve. & you are right the big gears need room,
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Old 10-29-2011, 04:22 PM
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I also have new scx with sc lowers with aprox., 8 hrs on them,behind aprox., 750 hp. My oil level went down a bit and called imco, talked to Dave and he told me just have air in them and will work it's way out.
I added a little oil to both and they are down again.
Changing oil now and wait till spring to try again
All my run's have been high speed trying to dial it in.
I am talking not much oil, but still.
I would like to hook my alarms back up, has anyone done this, haven't looked that far ahead yet, dialing in and boat new to me.
Thanks Joe
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