hwyrnr

I have a a nose coned stock XR lower unit on a 31 awesome cat with twins. I've been having a problem with the prop blowing out with 5 people and 1/2 tank of fuel. I just bought some wide cavitation plates that Im going to be putting on. I sanded the paint that was coming off the skeg and reprinted them and this weekend I got a little nick in the skeg about a 1/4 of the size of a pea. My question is on the leading edge should I sharpen it like a knife blade or round it or what? And on the trailing edge of the skeg should I sharpen, round, or leave it squared

Thanks, James

Mr Gadgets

James,
sharpen the leading edge, tapered back about 1/4", and keep the trailing edge square. That has been the norm over the years.

launchpad475

iTrader: (1)

Little thread creep here...

My -2 is tapered in the front and the back. What's the best way to square off the trailing edge?

Thanks.

thirdchildhood

iTrader: (6)

Wilson sharpens the leading edge as part of their blueprinting. I sharpened mine.

Mr Gadgets

Some times the trailing edge is tapered, but years ago a very knowledgable person told me that was not correct. I just use a file and shave it down until it is flat, perpendicular to the sides of the skeg. I was told at the time that the water wouldn't follow the trailing taper and it would cause air bubbles, messing with the water to the prop. Now if we could mount the gopro to the cavitation plate to watch it, we could really see what is happening.
And sharpen the leading edge. My friend installs nosecones and that is what he does.

Hope that helps.. and yes, this is time warp threading..

launchpad475

iTrader: (1)

I have my go pro back there, can't see squat! I've heard that about the trailing edge being square is a better way to go. Mine are sharpened on leading and trailing edge.

launchpad475

iTrader: (1)