Transom assembly removal how to?
#1
Transom assembly removal how to?
I have searched the we and this site extensively, I am looking for a how to on removing my leaking transom assembly. Boat has only hrs, so I am looking to not destroy anything.
I have removed the engine, exhaust diverter, disconnected wires for mercathode, and unhooked trim ram hoses on the inner side.
My question is can the outer assembly stay together and just be set down after unbolting from the inner plate? I just need to separate the two, clean and inspect, and fix the leak.
Thanks !
I have removed the engine, exhaust diverter, disconnected wires for mercathode, and unhooked trim ram hoses on the inner side.
My question is can the outer assembly stay together and just be set down after unbolting from the inner plate? I just need to separate the two, clean and inspect, and fix the leak.
Thanks !
#2
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Off the top of my head. You'll have to deal with the water hose - it runs THROUGH the assembly and then has a special expansion fitting that screws in with a special tool from the inside.
I'd unbolt shift cable from the engine side and just let it slide through as you pull the transom.
Typically I'd say unscrew the trim ram hoses from the access plate on the BOTTOm of the Transom Assembly, but what you've done will probably work.
It's been a year or two since I've done one so my memory isn't totally fresh. I assume you have external steering based on your avatar, but if not obviously the steering would have to be undone.
I'd unbolt shift cable from the engine side and just let it slide through as you pull the transom.
Typically I'd say unscrew the trim ram hoses from the access plate on the BOTTOm of the Transom Assembly, but what you've done will probably work.
It's been a year or two since I've done one so my memory isn't totally fresh. I assume you have external steering based on your avatar, but if not obviously the steering would have to be undone.
#3
Just remove the nuts. The whole TA will slip right out. Keep an eye on the shift cable so you don't kink it. Assuming you already unhooked the speedo and drive lube hoses. Peice of cake
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#5
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This is all it takes. Pull the nuts, and remove the inner transom plate, assuming you have external steering and no internal steering. You can remove the trim hoses from the transom assembly by dropping the distribution block under the mercathode, or just fish them out from the inside.
#6
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You sure that's what's leaking? Not the tiller pivot seal?
I pulled my assemblies to do the HD rings. Getting it to break free of the transom was a pain. Getting the styrofoam rope gasket to stay in place was worse. Get hints on here. I used silicone to hold it in place. I bet it'd be easier to use bellows glue and let it fully set in the transom assembly before trying to put it back on the boat.
I pulled my assemblies to do the HD rings. Getting it to break free of the transom was a pain. Getting the styrofoam rope gasket to stay in place was worse. Get hints on here. I used silicone to hold it in place. I bet it'd be easier to use bellows glue and let it fully set in the transom assembly before trying to put it back on the boat.
#8
You sure that's what's leaking? Not the tiller pivot seal?
I pulled my assemblies to do the HD rings. Getting it to break free of the transom was a pain. Getting the styrofoam rope gasket to stay in place was worse. Get hints on here. I used silicone to hold it in place. I bet it'd be easier to use bellows glue and let it fully set in the transom assembly before trying to put it back on the boat.
I pulled my assemblies to do the HD rings. Getting it to break free of the transom was a pain. Getting the styrofoam rope gasket to stay in place was worse. Get hints on here. I used silicone to hold it in place. I bet it'd be easier to use bellows glue and let it fully set in the transom assembly before trying to put it back on the boat.
What did you do to get it to break free from the transom?
I would like to remove the tiller arms completely, is that possible? Is there a block off plate to cover the hole?
#10
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You can trim the tiller arms down, but you can't remove them completely I don't think. You need them for the spacing on the upper pin.
There shouldn't be any sealer holding the outside transom assembly on. Once the inner plate is removed you should be able to push it right out. Worst case a little nudge from a dead blow hammer on the studs is all it should take. Mine was 20 years old when I removed it and it slid right out.
As mentioned, bellow adhesive works good to keep your new foam gasket in place when you re-install. Just a little bit in the corners is all you need, you shouldn't need to run it around the entire gasket.
There shouldn't be any sealer holding the outside transom assembly on. Once the inner plate is removed you should be able to push it right out. Worst case a little nudge from a dead blow hammer on the studs is all it should take. Mine was 20 years old when I removed it and it slid right out.
As mentioned, bellow adhesive works good to keep your new foam gasket in place when you re-install. Just a little bit in the corners is all you need, you shouldn't need to run it around the entire gasket.