Crunch Time For Painting Drives...
#1
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Crunch Time For Painting Drives...
I got side tracked this winter when my dishwasher broke and leaked water all over my fake hard wood floors and warped them all. So replacing with tile took up a lot of my time, on top of spending a lot of time with my family as my dad recovered from heart surgery. I managed to squeeze in some time to upgrade my exhaust on my truck but now have little time left to get my drives painted. I was planning on just sanding the rough parts, priming, then painting with a compressor, the merc cans did look temping but I'll stick to compressor painting.
So can some one give me a quick break down on what sand paper to use and then I good primer and paint. I've done some looking on prevous threads and some are way to complicated. The drives will be back off in a year or two so that I can grease the gimbals and U joints so it won't be a big deal to redo them when I have more time.
So can some one give me a quick break down on what sand paper to use and then I good primer and paint. I've done some looking on prevous threads and some are way to complicated. The drives will be back off in a year or two so that I can grease the gimbals and U joints so it won't be a big deal to redo them when I have more time.
#2
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Just painted mine this weekend. I sanded with a D/A 150 grit. Scuffed the good paint with a red scotchbrite pad. Prepped with wax and grease remover. Primed with PPG Shop Line self etching primer and painted with PPG DAU single stage acrylic enamel.
Jeff
Jeff
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I assume you want to sand and paint? Sand the drives and smooth out imperfections with #240 followed up with a red pad. Put one coat of Dupont #2590S epoxy. Wait approx 25 min and paint with Dupont Imron. 2-3 coats with no scuffing. Let them dry for 5-10 days before you put in water. If done right it should never be a problem. PPG is the OEM for Merc so if there is a jobber near you and they are cheaper than the Dupont jobber go with them.
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Fixx
everyone has their own method..when i do them for customers and myself i sand them down to the alunimum..this way i can take care of the corrosion now and not wasting time and money doing it 5 yrs from now.once striped if theirs any deep scabs i grind and fill them with all metal made by usc..i start with 120 then do all my filling then 120 again then 180 and finish off the metal prep with 220..dewax and wipe down then i use ppg dp90 black epoxy primer,,2 coats then i leave it sit for a week,,go back and wet sand with 320 then 2 more coats of dp90 epoxy primer themwait a hour and paint rite over the dp 90 with single stage jet black imron with high gloss medium hardener..one qt of each product will do 2 drives..
#9
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I might have to grab some of that metal made, I found some parts that look like started as pits and got progressively worse. I was surprised how easy the sanding was going until I got to the upper unit area and found that the previous person who painted really skimped on the sanding. No feathering done at all and prob didn't even prep it with any degreaser, lots of chipping that started from bubbling.
I've got about 6 hrs wrapped up in one drive just sanding alone, prob another 1 hr on it and I will be done... Well until I have to fill in some scabs. If I've learned anything in the past its prep work is the hardest and most important.
I've got about 6 hrs wrapped up in one drive just sanding alone, prob another 1 hr on it and I will be done... Well until I have to fill in some scabs. If I've learned anything in the past its prep work is the hardest and most important.
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Believe it or not I was actually going to go the quick route and use mercruisers spray can phantom black until I read some chitty reviews. So I'm going to go with either imron or ppg. I did however already order zinc chromate etching primer in a aresol can, is that ok?