sailerman

Is there a way to change the trim cylinders on a F29 without pulling the motor, The manual says that the cutouts have to be done when the transom plate is first installed, I do not see the cutouts for the pins. I am buying this boat as is.

Quick update. I bought the boat and will have it next week to start working on it. Really would not like to pull the motor

Thanks

Mike

motor

iTrader: (3)

Good luck ..hope it's not salty.If the transom was not cut to clear the pins it'll be almost impossible without pulling motor and possibly transom plates. Even when everything is cut with pin clearance they are usually a real beach. Probably the easiest way to see what you are dealing with is to try to find a transom assembly that is out and take a look Try pulling the pins on one right in front of you .You pull a small bolt that overlaps the pin ,then with it or any other devised threaded tool try to pry or pull it out ..Unless they have been out lately or you are extremely lucky ,they will still suc. Very poor design, service-wise. The cylinders and lines if available (some aren't) will set you back 1k plus

rickg1984

Undo the 10mm headed bolt on each side that looks the pin in. on the out side of the sheld ull see one bolt that has bonding cables to it and other side a plastic cap remove them and wind ya grease gun into it and you may be able to pump them out.
Whats wrong with the rams? some styles we just change the cuts over.

motor

iTrader: (3)

I heard the push it out with grease trick years ago. Never worked for me ...Maybe on a showroom boat ,greased pins and no corrosion ...I guess i'm slow, but ricg1984 ......what are cuts? Seals in the endcaps ?

rickg1984

I ment guts over. the two piece unit is easy but if you have the 3 piece type its harder

sailerman

Rick,

The last owner started working on them, they are leaking oil around the cyclinders. I have the boat blocked up now and would prefer not to pull the engine. However space is tight to work on the inside. Can the trim cylinder be rebuilt without removing them? (With the forward pin in place?) If the grease method does not work what is the alternative?

the mayor

No I tried. Where you pump the grease in make up some pipe fittings to hold penetrating oil let it set for a few days. Then used the grease gun. Worked on my 88 Cobalt. Kroil is the best penetrating oil but has to be order online PB Blaster works good also.

motor

iTrader: (3)

If its just the end caps leaking ,you can possibly repair them. You don't want to hear it but ,, Unless its a quick easy leak to repair ,the best thing to do is replace it all ..cylinders and lines and be done with it .If it is 88 vintage ,it's probably time..Then you got a few years of boating before you have to look at that stuff again...My opinion

High Cetane

I've done quite a few and usually had success by using multiple methods at the same time. Soaking, heat, grease gun, Det Cord/C4...whatever.
My best trick was an assortment of 6mm screws (same thread as the metric screws that hold the pins in the shield), and washers.
With the pin being threaded, I would run a screw thru a 1/4" drive 1/2 or 9/16 socket (slighlty larger Id then the pin's od) into the pin, and tighten to help pull from the inside.
But as others noted, you need the clearance on the inside for the pin to come out, regardless how you move the pin.

If you are just going to replace the cylinders, cut the cylinder away from the pin ...then its right there to grab....
Good Luck..

motor

iTrader: (3)

What do you cut the cylinder off with ...Or I should say ,how do you get in the pockets of transom assembly to cut the ends off cylinder ...curious. Are you saying to cut the cylinders ,off the pins ,from the outside?