Stern Drive Upgrade
01-28-2015, 05:18 AM
#31
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Boatless -
My understanding of IMCO over Arneson is IMCO is an easy replacement to a Bravo drive, mostly plug and play, costs less and the props sits closer to the transom for those who do some family boating. I think modifying a Bravo style boat to Arneson style requires transmissions, possibly moving the motors, etc.
Can someone confirm the this?
My understanding of IMCO over Arneson is IMCO is an easy replacement to a Bravo drive, mostly plug and play, costs less and the props sits closer to the transom for those who do some family boating. I think modifying a Bravo style boat to Arneson style requires transmissions, possibly moving the motors, etc.
Can someone confirm the this?
01-28-2015, 06:44 AM
#32
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Boatless -
My understanding of IMCO over Arneson is IMCO is an easy replacement to a Bravo drive, mostly plug and play, costs less and the props sits closer to the transom for those who do some family boating. I think modifying a Bravo style boat to Arneson style requires transmissions, possibly moving the motors, etc.
Can someone confirm the this?
My understanding of IMCO over Arneson is IMCO is an easy replacement to a Bravo drive, mostly plug and play, costs less and the props sits closer to the transom for those who do some family boating. I think modifying a Bravo style boat to Arneson style requires transmissions, possibly moving the motors, etc.
Can someone confirm the this?
So I bought the SCX drives, helmets, and reservoirs. They came with the 1-7/16" hub to standard prop adapter. In my scenario, SCX drives was easily my least expensive step to getting a reliable boat. The drives are a little longer than Bravo I's as far as hanging off the boat. With my extension boxes and SCX drives, the Arneson ASD7M only would protrude a few more inches. That said, extension boxes are not required with SCX drives.
So basically, anyone that has the HP transom assembly already, just needs to swap helmets, make their hydraulic steering work with the IMCO cap (in my case, this was easy) buy the drives and reservoirs. For added safety, buying an upgraded gimbal ring would be a good plan as well.
The beauty of the SCX drive is that you can mount it up and go boating with your normal props. How fast you go may very well depend on how good of a match your X-dimension and props are to your hull. The Arneson drive offers the potential for a big jump in efficiency/speed along with similar or even better reliability because of the simplicity. Assuming your hull works with Arnesons (most do), your potential with Arnesons over SCX is incredible.
A lot of people I've talked to say that the Arneson drives do often require changing the angle of the engine. This angle change may slightly make it seem like the engine is moving forward, but not much. In my boat's case, I would need to change my offshore motor mount brackets (I will work with the ones I have) about 3 degrees - completely dependent on your transom angle. You may also need to drop the back of the engine down a little. The angle change usually means the front of the engine goes up a bit. In order to hit the same exhaust holes in my transom, I would need to cut my tailpipes (double-wall CMI), re-angle and shorten one of the legs, then re-weld together. This service can be done by Tig shops or obviously through any tail pipe vendor. Boats without transom or thru-hull water pickups need to add those for the engine cooling (mine already has this). The only other change I can think of is possibly needing to change a swim platform position if it interferes with the ASD7M box (mine most likely does). From there, you locate your ASD extension box based on a template, enlarge a hole in the transom for room for the transmission. The transmission utilizes the larger transom hole and large extension box to avoid pushing your engines forward like a TRS boat. From there, just bolt everything up. The rear motor mount is slick - it works with the transmission and drive attachment to lock it in (no back bolts needed like a Bravo). The ASD box is also really slick, steering attachment and plumbing, trim attachment, trim indicator, and trim plumbing all go through the box, so this cleans up the transom. The hydraulic steering rams are a different angle than typical Bravo's, so the orbital valve up front changes, this valve is included in the kit. This is what my Active Thunder with a 13 degree transom would require, other boats may be easier. That said, for the efficiency and simplicity of an Arneson system - once it's installed, this extra work seems very worth it.
Last edited by Tibbstoy2; 01-28-2015 at 12:25 PM.
01-28-2015, 09:14 AM
#33
In my scenario, I already was using IMCO extension boxes (not required with SCX) and HP transom assemblies with my XZ drives. My hydraulic steering was also configured such that all I needed to do was use one of their standard upper covers (had the necessary tie bar and steering ram flange for my system).
So I bought the SCX drives, helmets, and reservoirs. They came with the 1-7/16" hub to standard prop adapter. In my scenario, SCX drives was easily my least expensive step to getting a reliable boat. The drives are a little longer than Bravo I's as far as hanging off the boat. With my extension boxes and SCX drives, the Arneson ASD7M only would protrude a few more inches. That said, extension boxes are not required with SCX drives.
So basically, anyone that has the HP transom assembly already, just needs to swap helmets, make their hydraulic steering work with the IMCO cap (in my case, this was easy) buy the drives and reservoirs. For added safety, buying an upgraded gimbal ring would be a good plan as well.
The beauty of the SCX drive is that you can mount it up and go boating with your normal props. How fast you go may very well depend on how good of a match your X-dimension and props are to your hull. The Arneson drive offers the potential for a big jump in efficiency/speed along with similar or even better reliability because of the simplicity. Assuming your hull works with Arnesons (most do), your potential with Arnesons over SCX is incredible.
A lot of people I've talked to say that the Arneson drives do often require changing the angle of the engine. This angle change may slightly make it seem like the engine is moving forward, but not much. In my boat's case, I would need to change my offshore motor mount brackets (I will work with the ones I have) about 3 degrees - completely dependent on your transom angle. You may also need to drop the back of the engine down a little. The angle change usually means the front of the engine goes up a bit. In order to hit the same exhaust holes in my transom, I would need to cut my tailpipes (double-wall CMI), re-angle and shorten one of the legs, then re-weld together. This service can be done by Tig shops or obviously through any tail pipe vendor. Boats without transom or thru-hull water pickups need to add those for the engine cooling (mine already has this). The only other change I can think of is possibly needing to change a swim platform position if it interferes with the ASD7M box (mine most likely does). From there, you locate your ASD extension box based on a template, enlarge a hole in the transom for room for the transmission. The transmission utilizes the larger transom hole and large extension box to avoid pushing your engines forward like a TRS boat. From there, just bolt everything up. The rear motor mount is slick - it works with the transmission and drive attachment to lock it in (no back bolts needed like a Bravo). The ASD box is also really slick, steering attachment and plumbing, trim attachment, trim indicator, and trim plumbing all go through the box, so this cleans up the transom. The hydraulic steering rams are a different angle than typical Bravo's, so the orbital valve up front changes, this valve is included in the kit. This is what my Active Thunder with a 13 degree transom would require, other boats may be easier. That said, for the efficiency and simplicity of an Arneson system - once in installed, this extra work seems very worth it.
So I bought the SCX drives, helmets, and reservoirs. They came with the 1-7/16" hub to standard prop adapter. In my scenario, SCX drives was easily my least expensive step to getting a reliable boat. The drives are a little longer than Bravo I's as far as hanging off the boat. With my extension boxes and SCX drives, the Arneson ASD7M only would protrude a few more inches. That said, extension boxes are not required with SCX drives.
So basically, anyone that has the HP transom assembly already, just needs to swap helmets, make their hydraulic steering work with the IMCO cap (in my case, this was easy) buy the drives and reservoirs. For added safety, buying an upgraded gimbal ring would be a good plan as well.
The beauty of the SCX drive is that you can mount it up and go boating with your normal props. How fast you go may very well depend on how good of a match your X-dimension and props are to your hull. The Arneson drive offers the potential for a big jump in efficiency/speed along with similar or even better reliability because of the simplicity. Assuming your hull works with Arnesons (most do), your potential with Arnesons over SCX is incredible.
A lot of people I've talked to say that the Arneson drives do often require changing the angle of the engine. This angle change may slightly make it seem like the engine is moving forward, but not much. In my boat's case, I would need to change my offshore motor mount brackets (I will work with the ones I have) about 3 degrees - completely dependent on your transom angle. You may also need to drop the back of the engine down a little. The angle change usually means the front of the engine goes up a bit. In order to hit the same exhaust holes in my transom, I would need to cut my tailpipes (double-wall CMI), re-angle and shorten one of the legs, then re-weld together. This service can be done by Tig shops or obviously through any tail pipe vendor. Boats without transom or thru-hull water pickups need to add those for the engine cooling (mine already has this). The only other change I can think of is possibly needing to change a swim platform position if it interferes with the ASD7M box (mine most likely does). From there, you locate your ASD extension box based on a template, enlarge a hole in the transom for room for the transmission. The transmission utilizes the larger transom hole and large extension box to avoid pushing your engines forward like a TRS boat. From there, just bolt everything up. The rear motor mount is slick - it works with the transmission and drive attachment to lock it in (no back bolts needed like a Bravo). The ASD box is also really slick, steering attachment and plumbing, trim attachment, trim indicator, and trim plumbing all go through the box, so this cleans up the transom. The hydraulic steering rams are a different angle than typical Bravo's, so the orbital valve up front changes, this valve is included in the kit. This is what my Active Thunder with a 13 degree transom would require, other boats may be easier. That said, for the efficiency and simplicity of an Arneson system - once in installed, this extra work seems very worth it.
Very well explained...
01-28-2015, 02:28 PM
#34
Registered
I don't understand putting up with bravo drives on this type of boat? It's 15 k for both the upper and
lower SCX and no more driving your performance boat like it's made of glass. Doesn't take very many rebuilds to pay for this especially to you put a value on not breaking down in the middle of the season.
lower SCX and no more driving your performance boat like it's made of glass. Doesn't take very many rebuilds to pay for this especially to you put a value on not breaking down in the middle of the season.
