1996 bravo 1 steering play
#21
Registered
I only got the pin on ebay. All other parts from JR. pin seal, trim sensor screws and clips, lower pin cotter pin, water hose bushings, u bolt, gimble ring side fiber washers. I didn't cut the hose like they say, I CAREFULLY removed it from fitting. Bellows and shift cable boot if you need them. bellows cement. the bushing came in the ring. You should not have to touch the top pin bushings in the transom plate. Also the seal is "checked" in 3 spots to hold it in, I rec grind them down with a die grinder before you take the seal out. Figure around 7-800 when done
Last edited by Pol83x; 02-18-2016 at 02:36 PM.
#22
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I kinda did the JR thing as well except I didn't use their stuff, but I did use their idea. During the reinstall I did how ever make a change that made tightening the steering arm easier, I removed the black coating where the nut contacts the surface, installed the clamping bolt in the steering arm, tightened with the old nut, then tack welded the screw hex head in 2 places 180 degrees apart. Allowed to cool, removed old nut, apply paint and good to go. Allot easier when not having to have 2 wrenches in there at one time,
#23
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I kinda did the JR thing as well except I didn't use their stuff, but I did use their idea. During the reinstall I did how ever make a change that made tightening the steering arm easier, I removed the black coating where the nut contacts the surface, installed the clamping bolt in the steering arm, tightened with the old nut, then tack welded the screw hex head in 2 places 180 degrees apart. Allowed to cool, removed old nut, apply paint and good to go. Allot easier when not having to have 2 wrenches in there at one time,
#24
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#25
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow way to go. I have a pic but I don't know how to post it here?
#27
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Your bottom pic didn't make the trip. IMO silicone is not that great over time, it degrades and starts and will start to leak. If your boat is kept on the trailer or lift (appears it does) there proably won't be much of an issue. I like stuff like 3M 4000 for things which may need to be removed later.
There is a guy on iboats which has tried for years to get folks to add a grease fitting in the top like they did when first started. He has a thread which a hole is drilled thru and into the bushing, going slow. Once it makes it's way thru, clean it out, tap and install fitting. The grease helps the seal say sealed and keeps the bushing with a film on it. Have yet to install one on my new transom but thinking about it from time to time
There is a guy on iboats which has tried for years to get folks to add a grease fitting in the top like they did when first started. He has a thread which a hole is drilled thru and into the bushing, going slow. Once it makes it's way thru, clean it out, tap and install fitting. The grease helps the seal say sealed and keeps the bushing with a film on it. Have yet to install one on my new transom but thinking about it from time to time
#28
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got both pics showing up on my screen. The silicone is used as a second line of defense, the rubber gasket is the primary seal, and yeah, its a trailer boat. Totally agree on the use of marine grease on the swivel pin during the install, I did the same thing.....can't hurt, right.
#29
Registered
I've done my share of the gimble ring and pin repairs, never had a problem with play in the bushings. Always the problem comes from lack of maintenance by not retorquing the u bolt every season.