Stern powr drive location on a 24' pantera type hull
07-30-2016, 08:12 PM
#21
madman,
heres the link for 24x7 orange hull,
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...4-pantera.html
there are a lot of threads about drive depth on 24's as well, i will dig some up especially one about using an extension box (both threads are from credible builders)
i would send off the props to bblades (screen name) he is a propellor genius, cruise the prop section. my guess is he would have a solid idea as to height on a v hull based off rake, diameter, and the set back on that sternpower and what not.
for the record class 6 was not being sarcastic he has a lot of 24x7 seat, build and set up time, so don't sweat it, most of the guys on this site mean well and a are a wealth of information. believe me when class 6 said he is interested in how the set up works for you he means it.
meantime i'll hunt up a couple more threads about the 24x7 for you to study on.
but try to keep the thread alive and up to date on your progress
heres the link for 24x7 orange hull,
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...4-pantera.html
there are a lot of threads about drive depth on 24's as well, i will dig some up especially one about using an extension box (both threads are from credible builders)
i would send off the props to bblades (screen name) he is a propellor genius, cruise the prop section. my guess is he would have a solid idea as to height on a v hull based off rake, diameter, and the set back on that sternpower and what not.
for the record class 6 was not being sarcastic he has a lot of 24x7 seat, build and set up time, so don't sweat it, most of the guys on this site mean well and a are a wealth of information. believe me when class 6 said he is interested in how the set up works for you he means it.
meantime i'll hunt up a couple more threads about the 24x7 for you to study on.
but try to keep the thread alive and up to date on your progress
Last edited by outonsafari; 07-30-2016 at 08:21 PM.
07-30-2016, 08:24 PM
#22
Last edited by outonsafari; 07-30-2016 at 08:27 PM.
07-31-2016, 08:50 AM
#23
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Awesome info there. Sure makes me think about what I'm really trying to do here. I'd love to get all out top end with this boat but the truth is. It needs to handle real well too. There is a seatbelt and car seat setup going in it at some point so the wife and little one can go with on picnics and stuff. (Obviously would be going a lot slower) so like I said. Handling is somewhat important to me. I guess slacking the right arm up a bit will make it safer for them. Lol. Getting ready to stick the new 60 gallon fuel tank I just built in it today. Have to get that in and covered up before I can add glass to the engine beds and stuff. It has a bulk head that goes between engine beds to hold the tank in. Want to glass it all back together at the same time as the beds. Then I will be glassing in the transom hole. Want to keep it open till most of the glass work is done so I can use the hole to vent the fumes. 🤔😷. Thanks again for the info. And I DO hope there wasn't or isn't any hard feelings from class6. Also. I guess mike is gonna post pics for me as I send them to him where I can't figure it out.
07-31-2016, 08:59 AM
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A quick question. Is there a particular reason that I can't see the pics in any of the posts? Like in the thread about modifiing the bottom I can't. And it would be very helpful to see all the pictures of what he did. Thanks
07-31-2016, 09:01 AM
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Hey there flying Bryan. That looks to be a stern powr drive from what I could see. What is the height your drive is at from the bottom back of the delta pad to the crank center line?
08-02-2016, 10:24 PM
#28
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I had that exact combination for about 10 years, '78 P&D with original 80 series drive. Same drive as 107 with a different transom assembly. I am very found of the stern powr drives and if wasn't worried about resale I would have no problems having one again. Unless you run over something or run out of oil you'll never break it with 400 hp, or 500 or 600 or...
My dad was the original owner of the boat before I bought it 10 years after he sold it. He built the boat with a 750hp blown 454 and it would beat jet boats out of the hole, never broke. It would scare the crap out of you though as it would damn near jump out of the water and if it landed straight you were off to the races but sometimes it would roll to one side when it came down and you had to get out of it. The boat eventually got an 850 hp Gales Banks engine and ran a best of 83 mph on the old speedo.
When I bought the boat back I put a 400 hp 502 and it ran about 70. i converted the 502 to a 540 and dynoed 640 hp. My dad had the prop shaft several inches below the bottom, 7" perhaps. I change the transom and raised it a couple of inches. Iater switched to the newer 100 series transom assembly which raided the drive another 1" or so. When I was down with that phase I ran 78 on gps but the bow lift was greatly reduced after moving the drive up quite a bit.
I eventually realized that the port side had a pretty significant hook in the bottom so I gutted the boat and flipped it over. I spent a year sanding on the bottom and straightening the last 6-8', sharpening all of the corners and lengthening the inner strakes about 18". Unlike the original strakes which blended into the bottom I terminated them flat. Before I finished the boat I sold it to a friend and put it back together for him. I made the 1st test drive and came back with 87 on gps. I told him to get the gps fixed cause there must be something wrong with it, turned out to be perfectly accurate. He worked the prop to get some bow lift back and moved the batteries to the port side to counter the left hand prop and drivers weight and ended up around 93 mph. I learned a hell of a lot from all of that which was in 2004. The boat is still running today.
With 385 hp you'll be lucky to get past 65 mph so the bottom may not be much of an issue. However, if you plan to go faster check the last 6' feet of the bottom with a 6-8' straight edge and make sure any gaps are much less than the thickness of a penny. The hull is narrow and if you put hp in it you'll need to swing a big wheel, I had a 16-1/2 x 29. Between my 400Hp 502 and my 540 I turbocharged my 502 which dynoed at 635 hp and if I stuck the throttle at 3000 rpm it was a crap shoot as to whether the boat took off or rolled to the starboard side. My drive was a left hand rotation so when the turbos boosted (which happen quickly) the prop would either turn to the left and the boat would accelerate or the hull would turn to the right, it was a tug of war of physics. The 540 made the same hp but the torque wasn't as sudden so it accelerated more gradual but none the less the boat still listed to starboard a little and I always had to drag a little starboard tab. When my buddy moved some weight around things got much better and the tab was able to come up.
The combination will work and you can put the prop shaft a couple inches below the bottom but you'll have to be prepared to do some prop work. The higher you go with the prop the higher the engine will be and that will start to disrupt your center of gravity. A right hand rotation might be a better alternative but it's not a must.
Good luck with it and have fun. Here is a link to a pic of the boat upside in my back yard after I finished the bottom. You should have the same transom assembly as me so if you have a way of scaling the picture you can probably figure out that my drive height was.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...-ae2005-2-.jpg
My dad was the original owner of the boat before I bought it 10 years after he sold it. He built the boat with a 750hp blown 454 and it would beat jet boats out of the hole, never broke. It would scare the crap out of you though as it would damn near jump out of the water and if it landed straight you were off to the races but sometimes it would roll to one side when it came down and you had to get out of it. The boat eventually got an 850 hp Gales Banks engine and ran a best of 83 mph on the old speedo.
When I bought the boat back I put a 400 hp 502 and it ran about 70. i converted the 502 to a 540 and dynoed 640 hp. My dad had the prop shaft several inches below the bottom, 7" perhaps. I change the transom and raised it a couple of inches. Iater switched to the newer 100 series transom assembly which raided the drive another 1" or so. When I was down with that phase I ran 78 on gps but the bow lift was greatly reduced after moving the drive up quite a bit.
I eventually realized that the port side had a pretty significant hook in the bottom so I gutted the boat and flipped it over. I spent a year sanding on the bottom and straightening the last 6-8', sharpening all of the corners and lengthening the inner strakes about 18". Unlike the original strakes which blended into the bottom I terminated them flat. Before I finished the boat I sold it to a friend and put it back together for him. I made the 1st test drive and came back with 87 on gps. I told him to get the gps fixed cause there must be something wrong with it, turned out to be perfectly accurate. He worked the prop to get some bow lift back and moved the batteries to the port side to counter the left hand prop and drivers weight and ended up around 93 mph. I learned a hell of a lot from all of that which was in 2004. The boat is still running today.
With 385 hp you'll be lucky to get past 65 mph so the bottom may not be much of an issue. However, if you plan to go faster check the last 6' feet of the bottom with a 6-8' straight edge and make sure any gaps are much less than the thickness of a penny. The hull is narrow and if you put hp in it you'll need to swing a big wheel, I had a 16-1/2 x 29. Between my 400Hp 502 and my 540 I turbocharged my 502 which dynoed at 635 hp and if I stuck the throttle at 3000 rpm it was a crap shoot as to whether the boat took off or rolled to the starboard side. My drive was a left hand rotation so when the turbos boosted (which happen quickly) the prop would either turn to the left and the boat would accelerate or the hull would turn to the right, it was a tug of war of physics. The 540 made the same hp but the torque wasn't as sudden so it accelerated more gradual but none the less the boat still listed to starboard a little and I always had to drag a little starboard tab. When my buddy moved some weight around things got much better and the tab was able to come up.
The combination will work and you can put the prop shaft a couple inches below the bottom but you'll have to be prepared to do some prop work. The higher you go with the prop the higher the engine will be and that will start to disrupt your center of gravity. A right hand rotation might be a better alternative but it's not a must.
Good luck with it and have fun. Here is a link to a pic of the boat upside in my back yard after I finished the bottom. You should have the same transom assembly as me so if you have a way of scaling the picture you can probably figure out that my drive height was.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...-ae2005-2-.jpg
08-03-2016, 06:49 AM
#29
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Thanks so much for taking the time to reply to my question. I'm very fond of the mx07 drive myself as it was the first hypo drive I ever saw in person and this same drive I have now was purchased brand new by my long time ago boss for his custom v-hull boat. Lots of memories there. I have a friend with a cnc laser. His program has something that will scale stuff for you from a picture if you have atleast one of the dimensions. So that shouldnt be a problem. Got a lot done on the ol girl this past weekend. And lots more to come this week. I just still need to figure out the whole picture thing so I can post my progress every day I work on it. Again. Thanks for the response !!! 🙏 Ian Adair. Mad man marine
Last edited by madmanmarine; 08-03-2016 at 06:50 AM. Reason: Spelling
08-04-2016, 04:05 PM
#30
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/p...-racing-7.html
try this one, pics start on page 7, youtube his screen name and or boat name, there are a lot of videos
try this one, pics start on page 7, youtube his screen name and or boat name, there are a lot of videos
