Formula 233 bravo hieght
#2
Registered
it is same length as the MR or alpha that came out. small boat with what, at least an extra 100 hp? putting it back where it is involves NO fiberglass work. the bottom of the gimball housing is where all of that power pushes on the boat. you raise the drive, you don't wanna just patch it there.
#5
what drive did / does it have, that your converting over to bravo ?
#7
you can get a paper transom assy. template for cutting the transom, put it on and find out where the drive is, 1974 probably deep but not like the cav plate would be below the bottom.
from there with a measurement the guys on here can advise how far to go, and if it would be worth it.
i think you'll need the template anyways, as the b1 transom has 2 more bolts than the #1 drive.
https://www.perfprotech.com/
from there with a measurement the guys on here can advise how far to go, and if it would be worth it.
i think you'll need the template anyways, as the b1 transom has 2 more bolts than the #1 drive.
https://www.perfprotech.com/
#8
Registered
yes. that is what is called R, MR and pre-alpha. that keyhole cutout has become the industry standard for standard drives. the bravo will go right on that hole with the top 2 bolt holes drilled above the cutout. you might be able to scootch it up maybe an inch without the bottom of transom getting too close to edge of cutout, but it would take some careful measuring, then cutting the top of keyhole and especially where steering arm is up a corresponding amount. best bet is mount the bravo where the orig was. that 233 would like the prop up a couple inches, but with the big block in there you won't be disappointed with the way it runs in the original location. the other factor in raising the X is sit next to the engine and have somebody close the hatch on you. then see how far up engine and exhausts can go before they make you build a new hatch to go with the new transom...