Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

You will love the JL audio speakers and amps. If you'd like to keep your grills, look into separates instead of coaxials and mount the tweeter nearby or even on the grill.

Diamond Dave

The JL amps are probably as good as it gets on power consumption being a class D. My MHD750/1 in my truck doesn't dim the lights or anything when pushed beyond hard and never has overheated. I have a cheaper class D in another vehicle with a larger alternator and battery that does though... this is with the vehicle running however. As long as you wire it correctly and use recommended gauge wiring (or larger) for the power and ground taps you will be good.

Funny you say that about the battery switches I have yet to figure mine out either but I haven't played with them at all. As stated above you may need another battery depending on use. I am curious as to how long others can play their systems, reports I hear are all over the board. I currently have old school amps in my boat that draw a lot of power that's another reason they will be replaced...

I'm not sure how close your batteries are to the amps (and you may already know this but I'm bored at work) but the longer the run, the larger the power and ground wire needed so don't skimp or you will have issues. Run an extra large primary power wire to the amps location (like this size: http://www.jlaudio.com/product/71655...ium_Power_Wire ) to a distribution block mounted close to the amps then the maximum wire gauge the amplifiers input terminals will allow to the individual amps. This will help keep them cool and maximize their efficiency. Do not zip tie your power and RCA's together in a bundle either this can cause interference if you use cheap interconnects.

Mseuro

Clarion CMS5 head unit, you want 3 amps 2 for speakers and 1 for subs. My 405 has 6 6 1/2 speakers with 6 tweeters in cockpit, 4 6 1/2 in cabin, 2 10 inch subs and one more in cabin, 3 amps, and a Clarion head unit which will be replaced with the CMS5 as soon as it hits. The list of features on the CMS5 is extensive, I love the idea of having duel zone capabilities. That's my opinion.

Diamond Dave

Pretty neat piece but three band EQ on a $850 unit come on Clarion... The waterproof controller is neat as long if you have a spot on your dash for it and don't mind drilling.

airjunky

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to use all those speakers and unless you get a m6600 or similar a class ab jl audio amp will draw a suprising amount of power bridged at 2 ohms. Xtant makes a good fullrange class d amp .that kenwood you have in there now is about as close as you can get to starting from the bottom .if i had 3 alternators 4 batteries in my boat man the possibities most dont have . Imo jl does make some decent stuff but too much of their amp and sub pricing includes warranty coverage on items noboby but jl can fix due to proprietary build techniques .bang for the buck , or value is somewhere between jl and its warranty costs and alpine's (toss in scrap and hand you new one )

ChargeIt

I would have someone familiar with marine setups figure out your current battery switch configuration and determine alternatives.
You really only need one start battery while directing the alt output from engine 2 to the house bank. Worst case, the genny start with little juice and with the power supply, can quickly charge any battery bank.
A battery per amp is a good rule of thumb for moderate cove playing.
You have he luxury of a genny. I would look at installing a power supply (powerful charger that can continue charging batteries while playing. do that with a regular charger and it will burn up) Check out Iota DLS-55IQ4.

Wet sounds 6.5 would be a nice sounding in-boat. The cone does have more excursion than most speakers which may be a problem depending how you mount the speaker or how the custom grills attach.
IF you find you cant hear tunes while running or lack while coved, consider the Krypt 6.5. It is a mild compression horn. I say mild because the cross over cuts some of the sharpness often found in a horn. Also, your lower traditional mounting locations are not conducive to highs which travel in a straight line. Thus the extra powered horns help get the sound up. They do need 150watts each. They do require the black grill that comes with and are as deep as a tall boy can so depth should be considered. Also, for best midbass they need an enclosure which can be modified from standard car audio speaker baffles.

airjunky

iTrader: (2)

Diamond Dave I want first dibs on the old school amps . The the old school ones in my truck definetly dim the lights .but take half the room the jl amps they replaced did .but boc godzilla at 3/4 volume you can feel the airbag trying to come out the steering wheel and your hair moving.with absolute zero distortion .
But hey the op has a huge boat with a minimum of 100 extra amps of juice at cruising speed
i would going nuts with full unregulated power hungry alternator flogging old schoolers
this guy had a boatload of speakers off a headunit maybe 2 cockpit speaks and a sub of a 79$ kenwood amp almost anything he does will be a improvent .boston and polk make 6" midbass that fit almost any oem grill and work decent with the moto horn tweeters -no crossover

airjunky

iTrader: (2)

The sub may have some love if its one of the older kenwoods .the good ones has to be a dvc unit to even make sound with that amp you listed .lol if the surrounds are ok and wiring decent your head unit has 6 rca outputs punting that amp and poss sub upgrade will absolutely be a 500% upgrade over whats going on now .and get the rubber shorty antenna for radio dont waste your time with that farm barn t wire crud

HyFive578

iTrader: (3)

I'm not 100% sure yet but I think the batteries are setup with two of them being for cranking and one is a house battery plus the dedicated battery for the generator. I have a Promariner 4-bank charger on board for those batteries. Assuming I'm right, I can't use the house battery for the amps because that battery powers almost everything but the cabin, ie: trim tabs, drive trim, hatch rams, etc. So my thought is now that I'm going to add another dedicated battery for the amps and also another onboard charger. I can run the generator to charge the batteries when necessary.

As for the stereo, I've decided to go with a JL M600/6 to power the 6 cockpit speakers, a M500/3 to power the sub and the 2 cabin speakers. Fusion M-IP700i head unit with NRX200i wired remote. Speakers are M650-CCX-SG-WH and the sub is M10IB5.

Tommy1005

I don't think you'll be happy with the 500/3 on the sub, 180 watts just won't get it moving very well. If it were me I'd go with the 800/8 for the cockpit and cabin speakers and a 600/1 for the sub, this gives the same 75 to each of the 8 speakers, plus 400 to the sub. That extra 220 watts to the sub will make all the difference. This would give you a simple 2 amp setup with good sound quality and a noticeable low end. JL subs can always handle more power than they're rated for I had a 8W3 in my truck for 3 years on 400 watts and never had an issue. I bring that up because the 8W3 and 10IB5 have similar power ratings. If it's setup correctly and you don't just turn the gains all the way up it will last for years without issue. By the way, I run my stuff extremely hard.