Prep outdrive for paint
03-20-2006, 04:12 PM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Just wondering? why would someone ask for advise and then tell us how to do it. If you want to know how to do anything paint or glass related I will help you out(been doing it PROFESSIONALLY for 30 years) If you ask merc dealers you will get 5 different answers. I will only give advise on tried and proven methods. PPG is hard to find in Canada due to the fact it is a substandard paint and will not live in a climate that has extremes. I used PPG years ago and it is not as durable as DUPONT, SIKKENS,or STANDOX. just my 2 cents worth Ive used them all over the years.I would go with a True long chain carbon polyurethane paint not acrylic.
Last edited by jimslade; 03-20-2006 at 04:15 PM.
03-20-2006, 10:56 PM
#12
Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Originally Posted by klaw
But, instead of the DAR9000 Acrylic-Enamel, I went with PPG's (DCC)Concept line of paints which are a Acrylic Urethane. This is a much more durable line over the (DAR). Cost is comparable. They still look like the day I sprayed them.
I also went with the DCC Concept over the DAR line for same durability reason.
Mine looked great the day I painted them, and still look the same now 3 yrs later. Diffenantly not as durable as what Merc originally painted them with. That stuff is tuff.
03-20-2006, 11:13 PM
#13
Re: Prep outdrive for paint
when blasting the drives do you disassemble them ? I had one PC's last year... I was resealing the drive so it was apart. Turned out ok cept for the pit marks ...shuda made the PC guy redo them ...I asked when I picked them up and he just said "yea its a lot more work to get the pits out" 
... I plan on painting the other drive ...
... I plan on painting the other drive ...
03-21-2006, 07:29 AM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Originally Posted by jimslade
Just wondering? why would someone ask for advise and then tell us how to do it. .
I appreciate yours and everyone elses input and just want to find the best way for a non proffessional to paint the drive including a option of doing all the prep work myself and have some one else paint them but I would really like to try painting them myself
03-21-2006, 11:39 AM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Originally Posted by klaw
droping off the drives for media blasting today.
I have my new paint gun from boatingbent its a SATA
I planed on the merc procedure which uses Ditzler products
PROCEDURE:
1. Scuff sand to remove all blistered paint and roughen factory finish. Remove sanding dust.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations and instructions on the individual containers.
3. Apply DX-533 (Alumiprep #33) to clean and condition the aluminum.
4. Apply DX-503 (Alodine #1201) brush on chemical conversion coating for aluminum.
5. The DP-40 (Epoxy Chromate Primer) mixed with DP-401 Catalyst can now be applied. A .75 mil film build is recommended.
NOTE: Allow 30 minute induction period for permeation of the epoxy chromate primer and the catalyst prior to application.
6. The topcoat consists of DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel Black and the DXR-80 Delthane Ultra additive, and DTR-602 Reducer. It is a polyurethane acrylic enamel system which provides fast drying, durability, high resistance to corrosion and good color and gloss
I have my new paint gun from boatingbent its a SATA
I planed on the merc procedure which uses Ditzler products
PROCEDURE:
1. Scuff sand to remove all blistered paint and roughen factory finish. Remove sanding dust.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations and instructions on the individual containers.
3. Apply DX-533 (Alumiprep #33) to clean and condition the aluminum.
4. Apply DX-503 (Alodine #1201) brush on chemical conversion coating for aluminum.
5. The DP-40 (Epoxy Chromate Primer) mixed with DP-401 Catalyst can now be applied. A .75 mil film build is recommended.
NOTE: Allow 30 minute induction period for permeation of the epoxy chromate primer and the catalyst prior to application.
6. The topcoat consists of DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel Black and the DXR-80 Delthane Ultra additive, and DTR-602 Reducer. It is a polyurethane acrylic enamel system which provides fast drying, durability, high resistance to corrosion and good color and gloss
Thanks
03-21-2006, 11:43 AM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Originally Posted by chewy1955
What does it mean when you say to allow 30 minutes induction period? I have to paint my drives this spring also so "I need to know"...
Thanks
Thanks
Some paints ...and primers as well want you to allow an "induction time" for the catylst and paint to completely bond to each other.....what that means to you.....mix it up....and let it sit the specified time....stir again...put it in the gun and shoot it
03-21-2006, 11:47 AM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Originally Posted by JETBOAT BRIAN
Some paints ...and primers as well want you to allow an "induction time" for the catylst and paint to completely bond to each other.....what that means to you.....mix it up....and let it sit the specified time....stir again...put it in the gun and shoot it
03-21-2006, 11:52 AM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Another question:
I thought the catalyst causes the paint to "cure" or set up even without air. Do I keep the paint in a sealed container for the induction period or does it matter? (assuming that dirt is not an issue)
I thought the catalyst causes the paint to "cure" or set up even without air. Do I keep the paint in a sealed container for the induction period or does it matter? (assuming that dirt is not an issue)
03-21-2006, 11:53 AM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
yes google "Induction time" and it will give yoyu some nice explanations
03-21-2006, 12:00 PM
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Re: Prep outdrive for paint
Originally Posted by chewy1955
Another question:
I thought the catalyst causes the paint to "cure" or set up even without air. Do I keep the paint in a sealed container for the induction period or does it matter? (assuming that dirt is not an issue)
I thought the catalyst causes the paint to "cure" or set up even without air. Do I keep the paint in a sealed container for the induction period or does it matter? (assuming that dirt is not an issue)
The paint is chemically cross linked...or hardened by reaction to the catalyst....but if you reduce it to spray viscosity...the reducer evaporates....it does not matter if its open or not....I always keep a clean towel over the cup to keep anything from falling in
