klaw

well my outdrives are apart and my chaoice for paint prep are

1 have them media blasted to bare aluminum prime and paint
2 sand existing paint to rough up prime and paint

opinions?

if I rough up exixting paint should I reprime thw whole drive or just the spots that are bare aluminum

SInce the Mercury paint job is so durable I am leaning toward sand and paint I am going to use the same materials Merc uses for paint

jimslade

Merc uses an electroplating technique on their outdrives. My choice 1. media blast complete 2. vinyl wash primer 3. epoxy primer coat. my prefferance GLASS SHEILD (takes 7 days to set up) 4. top quality urethane single stage paint. DON'T RUSH THE JOB. make sure all stages are done properly. The spray bombs that merc dealers sell, save your money, they are not worth spraying.

pullmytrigger

do guys use bodyfiller on the pit marks and such after its blasted??

JETBOAT BRIAN

This stuff works great filling nicks,chips and scratches....fast dry time too....I use it all the time ....and its compatible under any paint system...

jimslade

Any pit marks should be filled with an aluminum powder based filler.

JETBOAT BRIAN

Aluminum powder....lol....In a polyester based filler....covered with an epoxy or urethane or polyurethane based primer and topcoat...?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Doug, I used gray Marine Tex to fill the imperfections and blend the weld seam when I welded on the new skeg. 2 yrs later still look as good as when came from Merc.

klaw, I did what jimslade mentioned, but used PPG products.

klaw

droping off the drives for media blasting today.
I have my new paint gun from boatingbent its a SATA

I planed on the merc procedure which uses Ditzler products

PROCEDURE:

1. Scuff sand to remove all blistered paint and roughen factory finish. Remove sanding dust.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations and instructions on the individual containers.
3. Apply DX-533 (Alumiprep #33) to clean and condition the aluminum.
4. Apply DX-503 (Alodine #1201) brush on chemical conversion coating for aluminum.
5. The DP-40 (Epoxy Chromate Primer) mixed with DP-401 Catalyst can now be applied. A .75 mil film build is recommended.
NOTE: Allow 30 minute induction period for permeation of the epoxy chromate primer and the catalyst prior to application.
6. The topcoat consists of DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel Black and the DXR-80 Delthane Ultra additive, and DTR-602 Reducer. It is a polyurethane acrylic enamel system which provides fast drying, durability, high resistance to corrosion and good color and gloss

rv

Gary,
I just went through this with my drives. For the color I used DCC 9000 instead of DAA 9000. It is suppose to be a little better and is still a single stage paint. You can color sand and clear over if you want but do not have to.

Also, on the DP40 LF use 402 activator not 401. It sets up faster.

A call to PPG will confirm the above items.

Rick

klaw

Rick

Did you paint the drives or did you have some one do it

I had had this response when I was starting to investigate this
thank you,


1 QT. DX-533 Alumiprep #33 metal preparation
1 QT. DX-503 Alodine #1201 conversion coating
1 QT. DP-40 Non sanding Epoxy Primer zinc chromate primer
1 QT. DP-401 Catalyst for DP-40
1 QT. DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel-black topcoat
1 Pt. DXR-80 Delthane Ultra-additive for acrylic enamel
1 QT. DTR-602 Acrylic Enamel Reducer-temperature range 70-90 degree F.

Those pt#'s are PPG paint products. I redid both of my lowers this winter, but were disassembled and sandblasted bare. The above material will cost right at $160.
But, instead of the DAR9000 Acrylic-Enamel, I went with PPG's (DCC)Concept line of paints which are a Acrylic Urethane. This is a much more durable line over the (DAR). Cost is comparable. They still look like the day I sprayed them.


kinda confirms what you are saying

what about your steering brackets?