Transom rot! Looks like a long winter for me! - Page 3

offshoreratboy · 11-18-2006, 08:37 PM

Thanks For all the help guys. This forum is the most informative tool I have ever used in my working life. Where else can you get info like this by merely asking. I think that I am going with the marine grade even though I believe it to be overkill. The last thing anyone could ever call me is cheap! The rout I have decided to take with respect to the cutting of the strings is to cut the top of the boat. Now I know that this looks like a crazy way to go but for me cutting into those perfectly good stringers. Having to repair three large structural areas compared to one smaller nonstructural area is a simple decision for me. You will see that by the pictures it's not that big of a spot to repair and for an owner of a collision repair shop this is no biggy for me. I have always wanted to gel coat something so here is my big chance! All I had to do is remove the rub rail mark off the area to be cut and cut it with the wizzer. Only took about 15 minutes. I would say I could have this area glassed and finish repaired in about 5 hours. Cleaned up the whole thing with a grinder and should be ready to start making a template tomorrow. I'm going to hot glue a whole bunch of paint sticks around the perimeter and slide it out the "handy" hole I cut in the top. Mike I did check that center stringer out and it looks real good it is solid from the middle to within 3 inches from the area where it meets the transom, and yes mine had a 1/2 inch space like yours did the few inches where is was wet has dried out allot in just 24 hours I am going to fill that void with cabosil and whatever resin I decide to use. I'm taking notes on all your replies and will make that decision next week. Thanks again guys I certainly appreciate all your great advice.

jsmagnum · 11-20-2006, 12:11 AM

I would use Nidacore. It takes a little more skill but it will never rot and it will save you about 50 lbs. I just finished a transom install with nidacore, if you want I will post the procedure.

Audiofn · 11-20-2006, 08:17 AM

JS: I do not think that Nida Core is rated for transome work. What did you put were all your compresion points are? Nida Core will crush were you have to mount Drives, tabs, trim pumps........ I would think that after all that work to fill all those areas with ??? there is not mich left of the Nida Core.

IMO if you want it to never rot then you go with foam and mix up the densities. 12 pound were you do not plan to mount things and over 18 were you do.

I used the Nida Core in my fairing.

Jon

offshoreratboy · 11-20-2006, 09:47 AM

Jon your kill'n me! The fairing and dash job was the one job I wanted to get done this year along with the compartment upgrades. Yours looks great. I wish I had those straight lines like you have. Mine are all compound curves. It will be tough to do and will take time but I can do just about anything I put my mind to. Unforunately that project will not happen this year. Too many irons in the fire at this point.
BTW I have a buddy who is a cabinet maker and he has 3/4 OAK ply that is cabinet grade. I went over to his shop and checked it out. It looks great. The sheets are straight as an arrow they look tight, with no voids anywhere. But they are only five nearly 1/8" plys. They weigh almost the same as exterior grade ply. He said he can let me have em for $40 each. I'm not totally sold on it, I am conserned about the Oak grain being to tight for epoxy or resin (haven't made that choice yet) to wick into. Going to call Comosites One today to see what my options are. Thanks Offshore Ginger for the referal.

Audiofn · 11-20-2006, 01:24 PM

I am not super familiar with that cabinet grade stuff. From what I know about it The stuff has a very fine sanded finish on both sides. Those outer levels are very thin. Then they have some what thicker inner layers. The higher end stuff will have a bunch of layers were as the cheaper stuff will have 4 or 5. IMO this is WAY to much work to even try and save 500 bucks on wood. I used Okume for all the wood in my boat. The other thing about Marine grade plywood is that it will not have any voids on the inside of the sheats or between the plys. Do you really want to finish this whole project up and wonder if you made the correct choice? The difference in cost is seemingly so minimal.
If your budget is that tight then use the marine grade and then use vinnylester resin.

Jon

offshoreratboy · 11-20-2006, 03:40 PM

$$$ not the issue at all. I was looking for something better. This stuff has no voids through out, and the outer most plys are 1/8". But allas I have opted for the marine grade and the west systems epoxy Plywood came in at $96 bucks each with tax. I will be taking donations for this project at my local bank...I am a small business owner and I HATE to pay RETAIL, but the yard would not budge.The question left is, on the outside when I repair the wholes in the glass and I cut it back 7 to 1. Can I use epoxy to glass up these voids? Will the dis-similar materials clash and swell later where the two meet. My thought is to epoxy the transom inside and blend in repairs with polyester on the outside shell unless I can use the epoxy? Also what kind of cloth and how many layers on the inside. Hope to have the Plywood Wednsday. Get it laminated in by the close of this week end. Will have more pics at that time guys.

Thanks again, Joe

Audiofn · 11-20-2006, 04:12 PM

Epoxy over poly is ok

Poly over Epoxy is a no no

Check out the Okume if you want what is supposed to be better.....

Epoxy and poly/vinnyl are all easy to work with the Epoxy has a LOT less fumes.

If you use the epoxy think about what you are going to use for color. If you plan to gell coat then you will have to use Durratech as a primer before you paint the gell on.

Jon

jsmagnum · 11-20-2006, 08:18 PM

With nidacore you need to fill the area that any bolt holes go through the core, and drill out the hole.

Audiofn · 11-20-2006, 10:20 PM

Offshore what do you think about DB glass? I have used a LOT of it in my stringer repair and attaching the fairing. It is a lot less weight but is supposed to be very strong from what I know. I did two layers over the stringers and tabbed with 3 or 4 pieces 10 inches wide and staggered the edges. I also used cab. in the corners for a nice rounded corner. The picture with the copper gun was just using the gun to mix the resin not shoot chop.

Audiofn · 11-20-2006, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsmagnum

With nidacore you need to fill the area that any bolt holes go through the core, and drill out the hole.

I would like to see the pictures and know how it lasts.

Jon