Wet Sanding 101

[marineclean]

I guess it is about time to do a Q&A on wet sanding.

I know we have a lot of experts on the board, so I'm sure everyone can work together and add info.

We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each will have different results.

I will give some examples of what you need to do the job.

You need 1500, 1200, 1000 and maybe 600-800 if it is that bad.
You need a sanding block/pad
You need Leverage Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound
You need a small bucket for water
You need a buffer with a wool pad
You need a mild wash solution
You need some clean Terry cloth towels

I would do a small area before you start to tackle the whole boat.

Make sure the surface is clean. Start with the wet 1500 on the block/pad. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 10-15 strokes keeping the paper wet(you will see it removing the oxidation immediately) then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound. Then follow up the next day or two with Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant.

I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500. If the paint is still faded then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed. After I finish with buffing I always wait until the next day or two before I apply my polish. I like to come back, look over my work and make sure I'm satisfied with my work before polishing.

I know this is somewhat of a quick list that might not address all of the questions, so ask away.

Donnie

BTW, My oxidation remover will also remove light scratches and 1000 grit sand marks

[racesdad]

Let me tell you this. I used the Marineclean oxidation remover on my 1974 Mercedes Benz, original paint too, with bad oxidation, well in fifteen minutes half the hood was like new. no BS either. no mess,no hard work out on the buffer and easy to use. I have used all the different compound and step out there, this one is a 1 step deal.
I am still in shock how easy it was. I was going to wet sand and buff, not now.
i will post the no BS pictures Monday. YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE IT
mike stancombe
peppers racing

[RaggedEdge]

Good advice. I would add that I follow up the 1500 grit with 2000 on the gelcoat surface, and 2000 followed with 2500 on the painted / clear coated surfaces. Then polish with 3M Finesse It Microfine followed with a wax of one's choice. I like to use the Collonite liquid wax. The additional sanding gives you a deeper shine in my opinion. On my boat you can hardly tell where the clear coat on the paint stops and the gel starts, normally cleared paint has far more depth than the gel.

Also if your are attempting to true up the gel surface / get rid of the inherent unevenness, you will have better luck if you cross block the surface with the corser grit then in line sand with the finer grits. Sounds like a ton of work but the results are worth the extra effort, and more sanding with finer grits simply means less time spent buffing.

P.S. No offense to your products here, just never had the chance to try them.

[boatman22]

Thanks for the thread Donnie. This is going to help alot of people....Now I'm off to the Auto parts store as soon as they open....It's gonna be a long day

[marineclean]

Thank you Ragged. I knew with all of us on here nothing would be missed. No offense taken at all. We all have different styles and solutions.
As long as it turns out pretty everyones happy!

[northernoffshore]

Why don't you like the foam pads? Is wool that much better?

[99fever27]

I dont have a high speed buffer but I do have some 2000grit and a orbital buffer. The deck of my boat has some slight oxidation that I cant seem to get with the orbital. Would I be okay by sanding with 2000 then follow up with the orbital and some polish?

[marineclean]

Originally Posted by northernoffshore

Why don't you like the foam pads? Is wool that much better?

It's kinda each to their own. I find the foam pads a little bit harder to manage sometimes when I'm doing an extreme amount of buffing. I do use them on touch up jobs and when I'm working with my Swirl Remover. I am also considering the individuals that are seeking advice for the first time at wetsanding. I think wool is the way to go for them.

[marineclean]

Originally Posted by 99fever27

I dont have a high speed buffer but I do have some 2000grit and a orbital buffer. The deck of my boat has some slight oxidation that I cant seem to get with the orbital. Would I be okay by sanding with 2000 then follow up with the orbital and some polish?

Wup, Where you been 99? Mag said something bout you over at "fishingboats.com" being stuck on a roll or in a roll or something.

Yep, I would try the 2000 first and see if it makes a difference. If it's very light oxidation then you shouldn't have to go any heavier than 1200-1500. What kind of Orbital and Pad? I would just do a small area first then gauge what you need for the rest.

Donnie

[racesdad]

Originally Posted by RaggedEdge

Good advice. I would add that I follow up the 1500 grit with 2000 on the gelcoat surface, and 2000 followed with 2500 on the painted / clear coated surfaces. Then polish with 3M Finesse It Microfine followed with a wax of one's choice. I like to use the Collonite liquid wax. The additional sanding gives you a deeper shine in my opinion. On my boat you can hardly tell where the clear coat on the paint stops and the gel starts, normally cleared paint has far more depth than the gel.

Also if your are attempting to true up the gel surface / get rid of the inherent unevenness, you will have better luck if you cross block the surface with the corser grit then in line sand with the finer grits. Sounds like a ton of work but the results are worth the extra effort, and more sanding with finer grits simply means less time spent buffing.

P.S. No offense to your products here, just never had the chance to try them.

YOU NEED TO TRY THEM. WE ONLY USE THEM NOW.
MIKE