Engine Paint Options?
#1
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Engine Paint Options?
What are the paints that are best suited and available for painting engines excluding powder coat and Imron? I have both air and airless capability. Spray cans would be ok as well.
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Rustoleum 9100 series epoxy is the most durable stuff I've tried. Get it at Grainger. DuPont has an industrial line that has an Imron product in it. About 1/2 the cost of the automotive product and tougher in terms of heat and environmental effects. IUt doesn't flow out to a nice gloss like the auto stuff (about 85% of what auto does) but on something other than a flat panel you'd never know. Sprats better than regular Imron- more like acrylic enamel than super sticky syrup. The auto distributors don't have it- you'll have to find an industrial dealer.
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Excellent info Chris. Thanks. Which of these two do/would you prefer/use for engine paint? Any ball park idea on the relative cost between the Dupont industrial line Imron and the Rustoleum epoxy?
Rustoleum 9100 series epoxy is the most durable stuff I've tried. Get it at Grainger. DuPont has an industrial line that has an Imron product in it. About 1/2 the cost of the automotive product and tougher in terms of heat and environmental effects. IUt doesn't flow out to a nice gloss like the auto stuff (about 85% of what auto does) but on something other than a flat panel you'd never know. Sprats better than regular Imron- more like acrylic enamel than super sticky syrup. The auto distributors don't have it- you'll have to find an industrial dealer.
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The Imron might be a little cheaper (15 to 20 a shootable gallon) but the Rustoleum comes in gallon cans that you mix 1 to 1 so the smallest you can get is 2 gal (I think). They're both more durable than you'd ever need. The Imron is higher VOC so unless you don't ind toasting brain cells, you need a really good respirator to shoot it. I don't care for the low-voc Imrons- either for application or durability. The worst thing about the Imron is finding it. It's tough to get info even from their website- you might find a phone #.
The actual product is called Imron 2.8HG. With both, the biggest issue is cure time- like 8 hours. Accelerator will drop that to 90 minutes but it's almost $400 a quart. If you go with the Imron and need accelerator, I can send you some. It only takes a tiny bit to catalyze a quart.
The actual product is called Imron 2.8HG. With both, the biggest issue is cure time- like 8 hours. Accelerator will drop that to 90 minutes but it's almost $400 a quart. If you go with the Imron and need accelerator, I can send you some. It only takes a tiny bit to catalyze a quart.
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That is extremely nice of you to offer the Imron catalist.
I will probably spend the few more dollars and get the epoxy since it is easier to find ( I already called Granger to confirm availability) and I do not like the higher VOC of the Imron. I shot clear Imron on a boat deck once before and that was no fun. I believe that there is something else in the Imron that is hard on you as well besides the VOC.
What is the best solvent to clean the gun with after epoxy?
I will probably spend the few more dollars and get the epoxy since it is easier to find ( I already called Granger to confirm availability) and I do not like the higher VOC of the Imron. I shot clear Imron on a boat deck once before and that was no fun. I believe that there is something else in the Imron that is hard on you as well besides the VOC.
What is the best solvent to clean the gun with after epoxy?
The Imron might be a little cheaper (15 to 20 a shootable gallon) but the Rustoleum comes in gallon cans that you mix 1 to 1 so the smallest you can get is 2 gal (I think). They're both more durable than you'd ever need. The Imron is higher VOC so unless you don't ind toasting brain cells, you need a really good respirator to shoot it. I don't care for the low-voc Imrons- either for application or durability. The worst thing about the Imron is finding it. It's tough to get info even from their website- you might find a phone #.
The actual product is called Imron 2.8HG. With both, the biggest issue is cure time- like 8 hours. Accelerator will drop that to 90 minutes but it's almost $400 a quart. If you go with the Imron and need accelerator, I can send you some. It only takes a tiny bit to catalyze a quart.
The actual product is called Imron 2.8HG. With both, the biggest issue is cure time- like 8 hours. Accelerator will drop that to 90 minutes but it's almost $400 a quart. If you go with the Imron and need accelerator, I can send you some. It only takes a tiny bit to catalyze a quart.
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Chris,
Do you use the Rustoleum 9100 with or without a primer on a freshly boil out block? On already painted surfaces?
If you use a primer what do you use?
Thanks
Do you use the Rustoleum 9100 with or without a primer on a freshly boil out block? On already painted surfaces?
If you use a primer what do you use?
Thanks
Rustoleum 9100 series epoxy is the most durable stuff I've tried. Get it at Grainger. DuPont has an industrial line that has an Imron product in it. About 1/2 the cost of the automotive product and tougher in terms of heat and environmental effects. IUt doesn't flow out to a nice gloss like the auto stuff (about 85% of what auto does) but on something other than a flat panel you'd never know. Sprats better than regular Imron- more like acrylic enamel than super sticky syrup. The auto distributors don't have it- you'll have to find an industrial dealer.
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