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Old 02-02-2008, 10:37 AM   #31
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hair gel to . . . an its good up to about a hundred mile an hour wind
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:26 AM   #32
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Thanks for info guys,trying to finish prep work this weekend.Will keep pics of progress posted.
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:29 AM   #33
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Hey Dave,you have any idea of how much epoxy and glass I might need?
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:48 PM   #34
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just off the top of my head you should need about 10 yards of Bi-ax and about 8 yards of binderless ounce an a half. I buy my poly and epoxy in bulk and cant remember what i used on the last transom job i did but i would go with a five of the 635. you will have some leftover but cost wise its better than buying just the 3 or 4 gallons you will go through. Get all your brushes and stuff like that at harbor freight.

you will need one layer of ounce an a half down before the first layer of wood. and as you know a layer between each layer of wood
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:02 PM   #35
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Cool

OK guys here is the story,Drilled a pilot hole in stringer just too see how much glass Cigarette had laid in over stringer and I had a half inch (check out pic).Could not bring myself to cut out stringers so I cut out three inches off back of the cap,,cut through the glass ont the inside and she lifted right off!!!!Now I can lay in two full pieces of 3/4 and not have to stagger any pieces,boy that sounds too easy!Should be able to bevel edges on 45 and set cap back on and glass her up.What do you guys Think?Wrong way to go?Too late now!
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:02 PM   #36
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OK ,I got my template made today,took about 1 hr.I bought 2 rolls(4.95) of adhesive shelf paper and stuck to inside of transom,cut out with a razor blade and then peeled off and laid to laun panel and cut out.How much of a gap should I leave on the sides when I go back in with the wood 1/8 "?
What would you do on the drain plug,I don't thiink i need to go all the way down with wood.
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Old 02-06-2008, 06:56 PM   #37
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nice touch . . .i see you even got wood colored shelf paper

1/8 to a 1/4 on the gap is fine just make sure to back fill it before you laminate it in. Drain plugs i do how ever works out best, its OK to be creative if you need to be. On the Scarab i just did i bridged it like it was originally. you can always re drill it.
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Old 02-06-2008, 07:34 PM   #38
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i would of used coosa colored shelf paper...
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Old 02-06-2008, 07:35 PM   #39
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Old 02-06-2008, 08:52 PM   #40
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Justice: In the words from Top Gun "ballziest move I ever seen..." I can not beleive you cut that like that. Did you pizz your pants when you did it.

How are you going to remake the back area? I know that some one with a Formula did it the same way as you did. Honestly I think that you just made more work for youself. People worry about having the multiple pieces of wood for the transom but honestly it is plenty strong as long as you lap the joints. You can even cut them at a 45 for even more strength. If you 45 cut the plywood then that area will be every bit as stong if not stronger then the rest of the plywood. I only say that for any one else that may read this thread. I am not trying to make you feel like you made a mistake because lots of other people have done it the way that you have. It just seems like so much more work to do it that way to me anyhow.
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