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08-23-2009, 12:06 PM
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#101
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LeveragePolish.com
 Offshoreonly Advertiser
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lake Ouachita, AR.
Posts: 1,345
12ft. Aluminum Canoe
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It's going to take wetsanding and hard work for a shine that lasts. I would stay away from quick cover up products because they don't last and end up causing more trouble than they're worth.
We have a Wetsanding 101 thread here in the paint/fiberglass section. A bit of hard work, but the results speak for themself.
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serving Western Arkansas & Southern Florida
MARINE CLEAN Crew:
Please visit our Website for a Leverage Distributor near you!
http://leveragepolish.com
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08-26-2009, 08:45 AM
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#102
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Fenton, Michigan
Posts: 3
1987 32' Sea Ray Pachanga
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Hey Donnie I have been reading all the post on removing oxidization with your leverage OR and polish. I went to your web site to find a distributor,and found one in michigan just a few miles away. Jim Brown at Top Notch Performance went to see him to get some leverage. Tried a couple spots on my boat looks great just with the OR on it.Going to get down to bussiness this week. Looks like it is going to work.
I see my registration is still coming up wrong I live in michigan with a 1987 pachanga 32
been having problems with OSO have not straighten it out yet
Last edited by Pachanga32 : 08-26-2009 at 08:49 AM.
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09-03-2009, 05:08 PM
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#103
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LeveragePolish.com
 Offshoreonly Advertiser
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lake Ouachita, AR.
Posts: 1,345
12ft. Aluminum Canoe
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New buffer link. Looks like Harbor freight has upgraded.....10 amp/3500.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66615
__________________
serving Western Arkansas & Southern Florida
MARINE CLEAN Crew:
Please visit our Website for a Leverage Distributor near you!
http://leveragepolish.com
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09-16-2009, 07:32 PM
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#104
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: hamilton, ohio
Posts: 153
93, 32 fountain fever
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Ok I used the oxidization remover it looked good made the hull super smooth, problem was it would stain it n places where there were grooves & ridges then would have to use a stain remover to get it off... Then hit it with the polish & just was not pleased with the results... Ended up throwing a meguiers(however you spell it) wax on & loved the way the boat looked, even after a weekend @ the lake Cumberland poker run got the boat home n it looks just as good as before it left the driveway
Now I'm not knocking the product just some insight on what went wrong, the boat had some oxidization on it before but not enough I believe to demand a wet sanding, after appling the polish it made it look duller??
As for the other products from leverage metal serum, vinyl conditioner, vinyl cleaner they were great!!!!
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09-16-2009, 10:25 PM
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#105
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LeveragePolish.com
 Offshoreonly Advertiser
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lake Ouachita, AR.
Posts: 1,345
12ft. Aluminum Canoe
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Hi J,
Sounds like your finish is worse than expected or the directions weren't followed to the T. I saw that your boat was a 1993 model. Is this the first time you've buffed it or has it been wetsanded before?
The OR just dosen't soak in and stain unless the oxidation is bad. The reason it soaks in is because the surface is chalkly and soaks up the OR. When you're buffing with the OR it will buff to a very fine dust that mostly disappears and leave a mirror shine. The Polish is only there to slightly magnify/seal the shine and offer the UV protection the surface needs. The Polish will dissipate in 6 months to 1 year depending on environment and then it's time to reapply.
Now it sounds like you have somewhat of a base with the OR, but not a finished base. The MG you used will make a dull, oxidized boat shine, but it's short lived at best. The average of the MG is 3 months or less depending on the environment and the oxidation comes back even worse. I don't want to get into the chemical makeup again and why it has a temporary shine, but if you search, all of the answers are here.
So let me ask you to try this J, if you want. Let's try wetsanding in one small area like 4x4 then buffing with the rotary and OR and then polish by hand. I have all of the directions about wetsanding and buffing posted in this forum and many have used them with great success. Thanks for the compliment on my other products and I want you happy, so please let me know what you decide.
__________________
serving Western Arkansas & Southern Florida
MARINE CLEAN Crew:
Please visit our Website for a Leverage Distributor near you!
http://leveragepolish.com
Last edited by marineclean : 09-16-2009 at 10:29 PM.
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09-16-2009, 11:47 PM
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#106
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: hamilton, ohio
Posts: 153
93, 32 fountain fever
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I'll be honest I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to buffing, I was wondering if I just didn't buff it long enough or what? I did buff the boat last year with 3m rubbing compound, after using the OR the sides of the hull & the bow looked great just when I added the polish it kinda dulled out... Like I said the stains only came n very small spots on rolled ridges
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10-14-2009, 06:34 PM
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#107
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Registered
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 33
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I wetsanded last year and picked up very minor scratches and also found some areas that I did not compound as well as needed.
Going to to compound and polish this spring. Is the leverage oxidation remover and wool pad going to be to aggressive for my application.
I may run it an a bit higher RPM since I don't need the deep cutting action.
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10-16-2009, 12:53 AM
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#108
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LeveragePolish.com
 Offshoreonly Advertiser
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lake Ouachita, AR.
Posts: 1,345
12ft. Aluminum Canoe
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I use my OR on light to heavy oxidation. I buff a ton of black boats and there's never been any problems with being to agressive. I use a wool pad and my OR start to finish then Polish. Most of the time I can hit the scratches with a bit more pressure on the buffer unless they're too deep. Use the OR and Polish, you'll be surprised!
__________________
serving Western Arkansas & Southern Florida
MARINE CLEAN Crew:
Please visit our Website for a Leverage Distributor near you!
http://leveragepolish.com
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