How I use Leverage Polish & Oxidation Remover

[BillR]

I have a garage filled w/ wax's, polishes including the one mentioned above as well as about every type of product out there. I find it enjoyable to detail my cars/boats - kind of gets rid of stress.

I have tried Leverage - and so far I find that product to have the best results for the effort put into it. GREAT shine w/ the least amount of buffing. Stuff just wipes off and leaves a whoop azz shine. So far, I've tried the polish & vinyl stuff. Both are at the very top of my list.
I highly recommend Leverage!!! Try it and I am sure you'll be pleased - just don't put too much on - a little goes a long way.

[shortcake]

I work for Donnie Marine Clean/Leverage.

The Leverage Polish doesnt need to be applied to heavily. The Leverage cleaner and conditoner goes a long way too. No need to use alot of it at once. We can do a decent sized houseboat front to back top to bottom with half a bottle give or take

[shortcake]

[Rage]

The Harbor Freight URL you posted below no longer works. Which of the Harbour Freight polishers shown in this latest Web page is the one you prefer for boat polishing?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...CategoryID=105

Originally Posted by marineclean

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How I use Leverage;

If the boat already has a shine with No oxidation or staining then you need the Polish only. I apply the polish by hand with 2 terry cloth towels. I spray 1 towel 5-6 times and wipe on(no hard scrubbing needed). I wipe down the entire boat with a light coat then I come back and wipe the light residue off with the 2 dry towel(polish entire boat then wipe off). I also polish all of the interior fiberglass, dash, metal and gauges as well. The boat dosen't have to be spotless before you apply the polish, but it needs to be dry. The polish has a very mild cleaning agent that will remove things like spider crap, dust and pollen.

If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=90820

Before I buff I always wash the boat down then towel dry. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading. If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water and towel dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.

All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.

I only use Terry Cloth towels. I've found they can be used for many years to come and will not cause swirling like some microfiber towels.

I can do a 36' Boat twice with 1 bottle of Leverage Polish. I can buff an entire 36' Boat with 1 bottle of Oxidation Remover unless it's extremely chalky.

Please let me know if I missed anything or if anyone has a question.

Donnie

[marineclean]

Thanks for the heads up Rage!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90820

[sonic28]

man I hate your polish two years in a row polish the hull on the trailer then did the deck in the water just as i was almost done the bottle slid down the deck and so did I right in to the water your bottle never hit the water stopped at the rail but no not me.why don't you come up with a non skid wax LOL.Again still the best product i have used.
Paul

[Rage]

Thanks.

I would have guessed that the http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
would have been preferred because of the lower speed capability and possibly also because of the different handle.

Originally Posted by marineclean

Thanks for the heads up Rage!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90820

[So-Cal Detail]

Originally Posted by sonic28

man I hate your polish two years in a row polish the hull on the trailer then did the deck in the water just as i was almost done the bottle slid down the deck and so did I right in to the water your bottle never hit the water stopped at the rail but no not me.why don't you come up with a non skid wax LOL.Again still the best product i have used.
Paul

At least it was your bottle and not you. I took a header the first time I used it. man slid like you would not believe, I thought I was hospital bound

[Javelin]

I'm new to this and have just place an order for Leverage products. When they get here can I use them on the vinyl accent stripping and areas that have bottom paint applications?

[So-Cal Detail]

Originally Posted by Javelin

I'm new to this and have just place an order for Leverage products. When they get here can I use them on the vinyl accent stripping and areas that have bottom paint applications?

Vinyl accent=YES Bottom paint=NO no need to wax bottom paint