how to fill dash holes - Page 4

copiercat · 09-25-2008, 05:51 PM

a couple more...whats the trick for getting the heavy bi-axial to stay up when applying it upside down.. I tried making the resin hot but it just becomes a cluster when trying to roll it out and have it stick ?? also doesnt want to make bends around edges, seems flat is no problem but making it change angle doesnt stay either ??

copiercat · 10-20-2008, 11:03 AM

wanted to tell everyone about a product I just found at my local fiberglass supply store, http://www.fiberglassservices.com/products.htmwish I would have found it before I spent hours of filling and sanding. its called FIBERSHEET

High tech 2.5mm thick fiberglass panels with a
smooth shiny white finish.
Available in 4x8 sheets or cut to length from the
roll. Sold by the square foot.
Use in on composite core or urethane foam. Can
also be used for hatches, bulkheads, overhead
instrument panels and more.
The most advanced fiberglass sheeting.
FS-2.5MM
what this is is skin,finished . all you do is cut to size and bond it on..what a great time saver,you could buy it and recover any outer section of the boat as well..

hunster · 10-22-2008, 10:52 PM

Thanks for the diy lesson Dave!!!

Pokher Ace · 03-20-2009, 05:56 PM

Seems like a neat product, has anybody used this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by copiercat

wanted to tell everyone about a product I just found at my local fiberglass supply store, http://www.fiberglassservices.com/products.htmwish I would have found it before I spent hours of filling and sanding. its called FIBERSHEET

High tech 2.5mm thick fiberglass panels with a
smooth shiny white finish.
Available in 4x8 sheets or cut to length from the
roll. Sold by the square foot.
Use in on composite core or urethane foam. Can
also be used for hatches, bulkheads, overhead
instrument panels and more.
The most advanced fiberglass sheeting.
FS-2.5MM
what this is is skin,finished . all you do is cut to size and bond it on..what a great time saver,you could buy it and recover any outer section of the boat as well..

J-Bonz · 10-04-2009, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassdave

For authenticity sake the wood plugs used in this repair came from trees that were felled on the actual site at 188th street where this boat originated . I had to strike a deal with the crew that was clearing the area for the condos

Nice!! Do you have any of that lumber left over? So if you are one is using epoxy, What would you use as a filler over the mixed up/applied 407 to take care of the porosity? Can that product be you used you referenced to?
Jr.

J-Bonz · 01-05-2010, 10:47 PM

Bringing it back up to the top for my buddy who was asking how to do this....
Jr.

wjb21ndtown · 01-08-2010, 05:41 PM

My boat was re-gel coated, but the morons left the old name on the boat "No Vacancy" (the guy owned a motel or something) when they re-gelcoated the boat. I peeled the port side of the name off and there is gel coat finish beneath the old letters, but there's about a 1mm bump (could be more or less, but it seems about a mill) gap where the old letters used to be.

Does anyone have any advice as to how to properly fill in this gap in the gel coat, and what products I should use to finish it???

glassdave · 01-08-2010, 09:12 PM

actually you are probably better off sanding down the new finish and feathering it down to the old surface. Will you be re gelling it or do you plan to paint?

wjb21ndtown · 01-08-2010, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassdave

actually you are probably better off sanding down the new finish and feathering it down to the old surface. Will you be re gelling it or do you plan to paint?

I'm lookin' for any advice you can give me on which is easier and cost effective between paint and gel. It is only a right angle triangular shape approximatly 2' long at the base of the triangle and 1' high. I didn't know if it would be easier to fill and feather each letter or grind the whole area. I'm open to gel or paint as a finish, but I need advice on what to fill with (its just a depression in the new gel), and how to finish. I'm really open to whatever is easier, but I do want a repair that is going to last.

The boat is mainly out of the water in rack storage, and I think I'm going to be putting a vinyl decale over the majority of the area after the repair anyhow (but not the entire area, as the decale is more circular) in the form of the old school baja logo (the boat is an 85 Force 320). It rarely stays in the water for more than 3 days in a row (only for Put-in-Bay!!!), and the hull is in great shape (it has been rack stored since new, or nearly new).

If I use a gel coat am I going to have a tougher time matching the color (i've never worked with it or ordered it before)? And is it going to be doable for a first timer? I have sprayed car panels before, and I am very good with a brush and roller. I figure over this size area I could brush, roll and tip it, then wetsand and wheel out any strokes. But if I spray it I can probably do a better job blending in the new color with the old.

What do you think is best?

I should add that what I had planned on doing is sanding down the edge of each letter, filling them with bondo or epoxy (or some other filler), sanding it smooth with a DA (probably 280 - 320 grit paper?), block sanding the area, priming the entire triagular area, spraying with a dupont paint and feathering it into the old color (it's probably not going to be a perfect match, I'm going to have to have a custom color made), wet sanding and wheeling the entire area, and installing the decale. That said, I have never done glass work before in my life.

Panther · 01-12-2010, 04:02 PM

How's the Cig doin?