onesickpantera

iTrader: (1)

Okay, are there any good sources for getting started with painting? A friend is giving me two HVLP 1.4 and 1.7 guns. I don't remember the brands offhand but I know they aren't Sata

This is strictly for hobby and I will start with painting the steering components on my snowmobile as they don't need to look perfect.

PPG single stage DCC paint was also recommended and a local auto shop carries it.

But I have no idea where to start as far as reducing the the paint, adding hardeners, etc.

Like I said, I just want to do this for a hobby and hopefully learn a little and get better as I go. If there are any good websites or even books that would be great.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

actually post any direct questions you have right in this thread and it will get answered. If you need andthing more involved feel free to give me a call and i'd be more than happy to get you started. Best thing to do is exactly what you are planing. Start out shooting small parts in single stage and work up from there. just be patient and take your time, prep is 90% of what gives the best results.

Dave
419-461-4114

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

one other thing to keep in mind. all paint manufacturers offer product usage sheets with instructions on how to mix and spray their products. These are a good start but most of the recommended mix ratios can be altered for better results. On some products the ratios are labeled in a certain way to pass VOC laws but can yield a poor finish when sprayed that way so you have to adjust them for better results. One example is the Omni line by PPG. The high solids clear says it requires only a hardener and no reducer. Mixed like that and its almost un sprayable, toss in about 10 or 15 % reducer and its fine.


practice practice practice

onesickpantera

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dave. My first project will be shooting the steering components of my sled. They are small parts so I figured that best to start. Plus I already have the paint as I had a guy that was going to do it but he moved away.

Tha paint I have is PPG Concept DCC. I was told it was a single stage that doesn't need clear???

The parts are steel. So I figure blast them down to bare metal and prime first.

So, what primer to use? I would like to stick with PPG if possible.

What reducer to use and what ratio?

Any hardener?

These parts do take a beating as ice, rocks etc get kicked up from people ahead of you.

Thanks!

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

DCC is the way to start, if it is single stage ya dont need clear, but they make a concept clear if ya want more shine. Talk to the guy at the store about reducers, and hardeners, yes DCC uses them, but there are different temp ranges, ya gotta match and mix per your environment, and always use the same brand as your paint, its that easy............ALMOST!!!

Brandon

Its cool that you are getting into painting but with the parts that are gonna be getting a spray of ice while you are out riding I would suggest having them powder coated.

Chris Sunkin

Keep in mind that powder coating is a mechanical process and paint is a chemical process.

Powder coat takes already polymerized material and melts it onto the surface. You get little in the way of a molecular bond. Paint is an application of multiple chemicals that react after application and polmerize on the surface. If you powdercoat any metal that has corrosive properties, you pretty much have to pre-treat the surface. If you don't, any nick will be the source for corrosion to creep under the powder, resulting in the PC coming off in sheets.

So, if you're painting bare metal, you need to have a primer that is made for the application- often referred to as an "etching" primer.

Other painting issues...

These are things that will make the experience and the result just that much less frustrating-

Clean, dry air.
Moisture in your air supply will ruin your paint job.

Pick your day- and your reducer.
Don't attempt to paint on a humid day- or a very dry day. Hot and cold matter too. Using the proper speed reducer helps, but won't solve all your problems.

As mentioned before, you can't get a result any better than your prep.

For the application you are talking about, I would use Imron. Nothing out there is going to hold up as well. But polys and epoxies have downsides. They dry slowly so if you don't have a booth, you'll get dust in them- which can be very tough if not impossible to get out.

Lastly- and most importantly- virtually all catalyzed paints use cyanoacrylates in them. It's a very nasty carcinogenic chemical. Not only do they cause central nervous system damage, they can in a percentage of the population cause a form of contact asthma- they'll immediately damage your lungs. Repeat- one use, one exposure. The only way to tell is to breathe it and see. No cartridge respirator removes cyanoacrylates. You either need to spray in a well-ventilated area (back to dust and bugs in the paint) or wear a fresh-air-supply respirator hood. Base coats have little in them. Clears do though. The tougher the clear, the more cyanoacrylate that's in them. Catalyzed polys are full of them. Basic Imron (5.0/5000) is loades with the stuff but they now make a low-VOC version- but you lose strength.