cuting fiberglass? sound system
10-08-2008, 06:15 AM
#11
Registered User
Make sure you know what's behind the hole you're about to cut. There could be wires, lines, cables or the outer hull. Even if you don't cut through, you really don't want a hole in a space that's not as deep as the speaker you want to put in there.
Wanna' know why the professionals charge what they do? There's a thousand ways to f this up and only a small number of ways to do it right.
Wanna' know why the professionals charge what they do? There's a thousand ways to f this up and only a small number of ways to do it right.
10-08-2008, 07:33 AM
#12
Registered
Make sure you know what's behind the hole you're about to cut. There could be wires, lines, cables or the outer hull. Even if you don't cut through, you really don't want a hole in a space that's not as deep as the speaker you want to put in there.
Wanna' know why the professionals charge what they do? There's a thousand ways to f this up and only a small number of ways to do it right.
Wanna' know why the professionals charge what they do? There's a thousand ways to f this up and only a small number of ways to do it right.
The installer was obviously a genious on the last one. I was looking for a fuel smell the customer got every time he gassed up. The installer used a piece of 3/4 inch steel electrical conduit to reconnect the two ends of the vent line which were about 8 inches apart
No clamps, tie wraps He used plastic pcv pipe to reconnect the 1.5 inch fill hose. He did use clamps on that one.The best one was a 19 couigar tunnel with a big arse amp screwed thru the bottom of the boat. Screwed it right to the trailer bunk in the tunnel. Genious I say, pure Genious.
10-08-2008, 08:24 AM
#13
Ain't that the truth. I have seen a set of speaker holes carved right into the top edge of a glassed in gas tank once. I have seen a head unit cut out go right thru the windshield wiper wiring harness. I have seen a sub cut out under a rear seat go thru the main battery cables and switch. I have a speaker cut out in a liner boat go thru the gas tank fill tube and vent line.
The installer was obviously a genious on the last one. I was looking for a fuel smell the customer got every time he gassed up. The installer used a piece of 3/4 inch steel electrical conduit to reconnect the two ends of the vent line which were about 8 inches apart No clamps, tie wraps He used plastic pcv pipe to reconnect the 1.5 inch fill hose. He did use clamps on that one.
The best one was a 19 couigar tunnel with a big arse amp screwed thru the bottom of the boat. Screwed it right to the trailer bunk in the tunnel. Genious I say, pure Genious.
The installer was obviously a genious on the last one. I was looking for a fuel smell the customer got every time he gassed up. The installer used a piece of 3/4 inch steel electrical conduit to reconnect the two ends of the vent line which were about 8 inches apart
No clamps, tie wraps He used plastic pcv pipe to reconnect the 1.5 inch fill hose. He did use clamps on that one.The best one was a 19 couigar tunnel with a big arse amp screwed thru the bottom of the boat. Screwed it right to the trailer bunk in the tunnel. Genious I say, pure Genious.
in my biz i've had to repair some of that kinda stuff from local installers. One time this shop was doing an install in a high end ski boat and the installer thought he'd put in several of those nice loom clamps to make the job nice an clean. . . . .ended up with six drywall type screws poking right out of the side of the boat. . . . inside looked great though lol. Great suggestions here. Roto zip works pretty good and yes use the tile bit. My tool of choice for this kinda job is an air powered reciprocating saw or saber saw, makes less of a mess.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
10-08-2008, 08:25 AM
#14
Registered
Roto Zip saw. 5" hole saw (will fit most 5 to 6" speakers),Jig saw with reverse pitch scroll blades. lots of painters tape.Tape measure, small level, dry erase marker to mark cut outs and other points of interest. Safety goggles(very important, trust me on that one. I can still see the scar in my eye in certain light conditions) dust mask, nitrile gloves, long sleeves ( taped to gloves to keep the itchys out) and a good shop vac. Its so much easier to suck up the bulk of the flying fiberglass as you cut it than it is to clean it up afterwords. Use painters tape to affix the end of the vac hose right under where you are cutting. Small amount of resin and hardner to seal all holes you cut thru glass and wood. Most importantly, common sense to look BEHIND where you plan to cut BEFORE you do!
10-08-2008, 09:11 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ain't that the truth. I have seen a set of speaker holes carved right into the top edge of a glassed in gas tank once. I have seen a head unit cut out go right thru the windshield wiper wiring harness. I have seen a sub cut out under a rear seat go thru the main battery cables and switch. I have a speaker cut out in a liner boat go thru the gas tank fill tube and vent line.
The installer was obviously a genious on the last one. I was looking for a fuel smell the customer got every time he gassed up. The installer used a piece of 3/4 inch steel electrical conduit to reconnect the two ends of the vent line which were about 8 inches apart No clamps, tie wraps He used plastic pcv pipe to reconnect the 1.5 inch fill hose. He did use clamps on that one.
The best one was a 19 couigar tunnel with a big arse amp screwed thru the bottom of the boat. Screwed it right to the trailer bunk in the tunnel. Genious I say, pure Genious.
The installer was obviously a genious on the last one. I was looking for a fuel smell the customer got every time he gassed up. The installer used a piece of 3/4 inch steel electrical conduit to reconnect the two ends of the vent line which were about 8 inches apart
No clamps, tie wraps He used plastic pcv pipe to reconnect the 1.5 inch fill hose. He did use clamps on that one.The best one was a 19 couigar tunnel with a big arse amp screwed thru the bottom of the boat. Screwed it right to the trailer bunk in the tunnel. Genious I say, pure Genious.
Are the initials of the genius SR ???
10-08-2008, 09:56 PM
#17
VP of the tickfaw200
Thread Starter
How does your Baja not have Gel Coat???? Baja's only use in gel graphics with some special order exceptions where the graphics get painted. If the entire boat is yellow, its probably yellow gel coat. It could have been cleared over, but I highly doubt it. Either way, It has to have gel coat even if it is painted or cleared over.
Speaker holes are nothing to cut. You can use a sabre saw with a scroll bit, roto zip, dremmel, etc. Its really no different than cutting wood other than the fiberglass is a lot harder.
Speaker holes are nothing to cut. You can use a sabre saw with a scroll bit, roto zip, dremmel, etc. Its really no different than cutting wood other than the fiberglass is a lot harder.
10-08-2008, 11:29 PM
#18
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
I'm betting that the hull is all yellow gel coat. The graphics are painted and then the entire sides are clear coated over. Any chips or nicks could be fixed with just gel coat and blended in.
Again, cutting speaker holes is not that bad. I just got cutting 2 holes for subs. Follow all the advice everyone has posted. I use a Dremmel with a roto zip cutting bit, cut the hole a 1/8 inch small and then grind out the edge with a rasp on a drill.
Again, cutting speaker holes is not that bad. I just got cutting 2 holes for subs. Follow all the advice everyone has posted. I use a Dremmel with a roto zip cutting bit, cut the hole a 1/8 inch small and then grind out the edge with a rasp on a drill.
Last edited by Griff; 10-08-2008 at 11:33 PM.
10-13-2008, 07:58 PM
#19
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Also if your cutting the hole for speakers make sure you purchase the speakers first. Different companies use different sizes could be off a 1/4 inch and you will have a larger hole. I drilled 6 holes 2 for subs and 2 for the 6.5 and made 2 larger for the 7.5's. Again just make sure you measure and makes sure that is where you want them. Measure behind where there going to go and make sure it is deep enough to install them there. The speakers you buy should have a templet so it will make it easier for you to install.
