stormbauer

Has anyone had any experience powder coating Bravo Lower Units? How did they do it? How it it turn out? It it hold up?

Any opinions would be helpful.

Thanks

Wahoo ATV

haven't done a drive but have done some other stuff. I would not do it because unlike paint, powder coat kind of wraps the part and doesnt chemically bond to it. So if a corner comes lose you get corrosion under the whole piece and it pulls off it in strips. Paint just wears off.

stormbauer

Great feedback and never though of either of these downsides! It appears that paint will be way to go. Anyone have suggestions on what is best paint to use for drives? Also what is best preparation. Currently drives are in good shape but want to paint to match hardware which is clear powder. Rough sand and coat over?

amx1972

Hey I have done 5 sets of Bravos. Powder coating is too thick and does not let the heat excape and way to hard to touch up if chipped or damaged. the best way and most durable way I have found is using a very good Zink primer witch is the best to adhear to the castings. The Paint I have found to be best and closest to the Merc Black is Dupli-Color high heat Engine enamel. Has held up good for me. Can send pics if you like

26 Spyder

I have powdered several drives. Never had a problem, very durable and easy to clean. Even with a 2 step transparent color.

Baja_man

So would it be better just simply to remove old paint and polish the bare metal?

Wahoo ATV

Don't polish it if you want speed. Most believe that if you sand the lower with 150 grit you pick up a little speed and it is easier to keep clean.

26 Spyder

First, read his original question, It was asking anybody's opinion if had been done and how it worked and held up.
I answered that question. Yes, it does work and it does hold up.
Would I do it on a 100+ application, Upper yes, lower no.

Second, just because I have a couple boats listed that I currently own does not mean I have no experience with performance boats and drives. You have no idea what I have built in the past and whose boats I have worked on, or for that matter whose race teams I have been on.

I am not a boating newbie and I was simply answering his question truthfully because some one else searching the post may have an Alpha or a pair of TRS they are considering powdercoating.

Derek

Ghostrider

Had to drag this back up again. I've just redone my drive and repainted it. The paint I used was an anti corrosive topcoat enamel but I fear it's not strong enough unless it's a 2-pac baked on finish like they came with from merc.

Is this Dupli Color Engine enamel strong engouh? As in does it leave a nice hard surface? If so then I'll get some, it's either that or I'm thinking of top coating with POR 15 - that bulletproof paint which is supposed to be nearly bullet proof!

Anyone heard of POR 15 up there? Anyone used it?

James

When talking about paints it is a little like talking about eggs, I want "eggs" for breakfast. Turtle eggs chicken eggs, turkey eggs, goose eggs, blue bird eggs etc.... paints have generic classes or groups. Paints are formulated for a particular purpose. One paint brand is not better than another ( except for price) when you are purchasing the same "type' of paint. POR 15 is a great product, however it chalks quickly when exposed to sunlight, does not flow out smooth on vertical surfaces, becomes very hard and will not accept top coats and is generally brittle even though it is hard. Powder coat can be an alternative coating, it can work well in the correct application, but is NOT better when compared to similar aliphatic polyurethane wet coatings. Powder has a disadvantage of requiring heat to cure. Heat can cause problems and blemish to aluminum castings that have been oil soaked. Nothing is easy. If you want durability, performance and at the end of the day low cost - Purchase from paint manufactures that have paints made for the boat industry and purchase the expensive stuff that they have on the shelf. Doing it twice with the cheap stuff is painful. An if it looks easy ( spray can) you probably get what you pay for, and that is a temporary fix. Surface preparation is always key - Remove the invisible salts, sand or rough up the surface, for below water application apply immersion rated epoxy, apply immersion rated topcoats per spec. If the boat does not stay in the water more than 7 days @ 77 degrees (as a rule of thumb) then a conventional aliphatic urethane, also knows as "single stage", to include all brands and brand names "Imron" etc... will work. If you keep the boat in the water it is a different game -