Rubbing compound, Polish, and polishing wheel???

[Ona-Mission]

I will be wet sanding my boat (white Gel) soon. I'm pretty sure that the next steps will be to rub it out, polish, then finally wax. First of all I want to ask for any tips up to this point. Next I have a variety of different angle grinders should all accept pads. They all have different rpm ratings. what is the perfect one to use? I would expect that if I'm not careful with the chemicals and tools I can do a lot of damage.

Thanks
Pat

[marineclean]

I use a Twisted Wool Pad after wetsanding.

If you haven't tried my OR then I would give it a shot before wetsanding. You can also use it to remove the Grit Marks if you do have to wetsand.

Here's a good link.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...ing-101-a.html

Donnie

[Ona-Mission]

Originally Posted by marineclean

I use a Twisted Wool Pad after wetsanding.

If you haven't tried my OR then I would give it a shot before wetsanding. You can also use it to remove the Grit Marks if you do have to wetsand.

Here's a good link.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...ing-101-a.html

Donnie

Thanks!

[Inspector]

If the surface you are working with is still gel coat and not paint I would skip the wet sanding and buff it with a heavy duty rubbing compound. As you work the compound it will break down and give a glossy finish after removing oxidation. Gel coat is very hard compared to paint and it is difficult to wet sand (by hand) and hard to damage with rubbing compound. Let the buffing wheel do the work. I had a black 34' Scarab which had faded to a light grey. I spend several days wet sanding one area with finer grits of wet /dry sand paper. I then used a coarse rubbing compound (Tiger Cut - no longer available) on the sanded area and beyond. There was no difference... I finished the entire boat in one day by skipping the sanding steps. You will need a good buffer, I use a Black and Decker Buffmaster which is variable speed and load sensitive (maintains the same RPM with increasing load).
Good Luck...

[marineclean]

Inspector is right. There's been many of time I've got a Brilliant Shine with just buffing. That's why I always direct everyone to try a Rotary first before buffing. Here's another good link on buffing. The Harbor freight buffers are great! Make sure to get the variable speed for around 50-60 dollars depending if they're running a sale.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...n-remover.html

[Brandon]

Like they said, try to buff it out first. If you wetsand and plan to do the whole thing use a DA if you have a good air compressor. 1200 grit works good and it will buff out without going over it with different grits. Use a spray bottle full of water and put 3-4 drops of dawn dish soad in it and your paper won't clog up as fast. Also, be carefull with the buffer and keep it moving, if you keep it in the same place it will leave burn marks. I've heard good things about Leverage but never used it myself. I have always used 3M rubbing compounds and never had a problem. I probably do a dozen boats a month with the stuff.

[amx1972]

Been doing detailing for years. went to school for autobody. Have tried just about every polish, compound and wax on gelcoat. Best bet and I have found most easy to work with is sticking with 3M products. I have just got done doing this boat witch the gelcoat was in pretty weathered shape. No sanding at all. do not wear that gellcoat thin. It will come back. I would start with a light Buffing with 3M rubbing compound (Light Buffing) It will burn if you do not watch. Next would be 3M marine Restorer and the same (Light Buffing). Last of all Buff with 3M Finessit 111. You can use a lot more preasure with Finessit. The speed of the buffer is very important. No high speed grinders at all. 50 60 bucks you can get a craftsman buffr. As for as pads I use 3M pads as well (wool pads) There are 2 or 3 diferent typs. One for cutting witch is the white pad and one for the finich or polishing work witch is the yellow pad. The best wax that holds up the best and is very easy to work with is new finish 2000. This boat in the attachment is a 1989 . the gelcoat was so bad is was chalky and would come off on your finger. I did this boat using the steps I listed.

[marineclean]

Send me a PM sometime amx. I do a few hundred boars per year and we've formulated a more simple way that works and the results are phenomenal.

Here's a few we've buffed.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...to-thread.html

Donnie

[amx1972]

Awsume boats and pain jobs but all are new from the start. Show me and old oxidized gelcoat before and after and you might change my mind. Your product does look awsume but a lots of the work is the one behond the buffer as well. I love your boats (awsume) The gelcoat of the regal was so bad it was chalkey

[marineclean]

Pull up the before and after of the Chris Craft on page two of that thread. It's the dark blue with Matt holding the buffer. Both Black Cobalts were terribly oxidized and the reflections are like glass now. I've got a ton of before and after pictures in this section.

Donnie