differences in fiberglass mat and cloth quality between brands

[Shore Thing]

Is there a difference between the fiberglass mat and cloth that you buy at west marine (Evercoat) and the fiberglass mat and cloth that you can buy at lowes (Elmers) other than the 80% markup?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...5&classNum=165

http://www.elmers.com/Products/Produ...nid=1&catid=1#

It's going to be used for dash repairs and a few other spot repairs and I plan to use West System Epoxy resin.

I have no problem paying for the stuff at west marine if it warrants it, but always like a deal.

thanks.

[glassdave]

either one of those are fine but not theres not much of a differance between them. Keep in mind though neither of those can be used with an epoxy system. You need a woven fiberglass cloth. The binders in the chop mat inhibit proper wet out and curing. For finishing reasons you'd probably be better off using just a regular polyester resin unless its a structural repair.

[Shore Thing]

Thanks dave. I've never done a fiberglass job before, but i've got the perfect boat to learn on now. I've started collecting info between OSO, SOS, S&F, and THT, youtube, and the west system website. I'm almost ready to start doing some damage!

Is there any reason i can't use polyester resin to fill screw holes beneath the water line? Or should those be done with epoxy?

[glassdave]

Originally Posted by Shore Thing

Thanks dave. I've never done a fiberglass job before, but i've got the perfect boat to learn on now. I've started collecting info between OSO, SOS, S&F, and THT, youtube, and the west system website. I'm almost ready to start doing some damage!

Is there any reason i can't use polyester resin to fill screw holes beneath the water line? Or should those be done with epoxy?

you can use poly below the waterline, something along the lines of west systems 404 dry filler mixed with a polyester resin then gelcoated. You cannot use polyester based light automotive type body fillers or Duraglass. My favorite filler for below the waterline of a ready to use mix in hardener type is 3M's Permium Vinylester fairing filler.

If you are filling in screw holes i would recommend the 404 and poly or epoxy resin. Again using epoxy limits whats available to you for final finishing. For this reason its usually easier to just use poly or vinyl. Its not structural and its way easier to work with polys (for the do it yourselfer) and you really wont see any advantage with epoxy. Do you plan on re drilling any of them?

Did you see the thread i did on dash and screw holes?

[Shore Thing]

i have some formula 27 filler (I think that's what its called) in the shed. when boater's world was going out of business, I looted them for whatever I could find that i thought i may use in the future. I don't plan on redrilling any of the holes. Everything i've removed is either removed for good or getting relocated.

I've been all over the dash and screw hole thread. I've had it book marked along with painting 101. I plan to follow most of your guidelines, except i'm gonna shoot awlgrip instead of base and clear.

One more question. Since i plan to awlgrip the boat instead of gel coating it, can i just put filler over the glass? Additionally, there are places i will be filling that won't get paint until next year, will they be okay with just filler for a year and no primer/paint on top? Or does it need something there to seal the repair?

I'm doing the boat in two phases so that i don't have it all torn apart come May. Phase 1 will be this winter with removing the old bottom paint, fixing gel coat issues, removing the console, filling holes and updating the dash and some wiring. New hatches throughout the boat, then awlgripping the inside.

Phase 2 will be next winter when i awlgrip the outside top to bottom.


Thanks a lot. You're threads are what inspired me to take this on myself. i'm actually looking forward to it. I'm sure i won't be saying the same in March though!