Best way to fill holes after hatch scoop removal????
02-27-2010, 02:05 PM
#12
Charter Member # 55
Charter MemberThread Starter
Are the scoop covers going to be separate pieces from the sun pad cover with them having their own separate vinyl so you can easily go back to scoops?
No. I was originally going to it this way, but the existing vinyl has some staining and needs to be replaced anyway. It would not be difficult to have the new skin modified later if I wanted the scoops back on.
If the new scoop covers are an inch or so wider (per side) then the holes, plywood would still be strong enough or if your still concerned about strength, cover it with hardwood.
The thickest I can go is 3/8" to maintain the same feel walking across the sunpad without high spots. That would mean I could only use 1/4" wood and put about 3 layers of glass/resin on both sides to strengthen it. Chances are it would still have quite a bit of flex to it. Its really just not worth the time or mess to me to save $75-100.
No. I was originally going to it this way, but the existing vinyl has some staining and needs to be replaced anyway. It would not be difficult to have the new skin modified later if I wanted the scoops back on.
If the new scoop covers are an inch or so wider (per side) then the holes, plywood would still be strong enough or if your still concerned about strength, cover it with hardwood.
The thickest I can go is 3/8" to maintain the same feel walking across the sunpad without high spots. That would mean I could only use 1/4" wood and put about 3 layers of glass/resin on both sides to strengthen it. Chances are it would still have quite a bit of flex to it. Its really just not worth the time or mess to me to save $75-100.
03-06-2010, 03:32 PM
#13
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Over kill. A sheet of foam 3/4 oz mat and 12oz woven 3/4 mat on the bottom.Make 3 3" tall stringers as wide the opening. 45 the ends to taper down.If you want it to have a crown to it radius the stringers for the desired amount.Once the bottom of the hatch is glassed to the stringers lay up the top of the hatch with a layer of 1- 1/2 oz mat,layer woven,another 1- 1/2 mat.Brush on gelcoat thick then sand it down to almost smooth with 120grt then spray the final gelcoat.Sand smooth and buff out. Light and strong. If we can make 18ft boats under 500#s that make 130mph passes motor covers shouldn't be too heavy.Hinge plate backing can be laminated in the desired area.nothin but a thing.
03-06-2010, 04:26 PM
#14
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Over kill. A sheet of foam 3/4 oz mat and 12oz woven 3/4 mat on the bottom.Make 3 3" tall stringers as wide the opening. 45 the ends to taper down.If you want it to have a crown to it radius the stringers for the desired amount.Once the bottom of the hatch is glassed to the stringers lay up the top of the hatch with a layer of 1- 1/2 oz mat,layer woven,another 1- 1/2 mat.Brush on gelcoat thick then sand it down to almost smooth with 120grt then spray the final gelcoat.Sand smooth and buff out. Light and strong. If we can make 18ft boats under 500#s that make 130mph passes motor covers shouldn't be too heavy.Hinge plate backing can be laminated in the desired area.nothin but a thing. btw Always grind about 50+ degree angle around holes and stress cracks to be repaired almost through and fill with layers of mat enough to be able to grind flat with as little fill as possible.Do it right or do it over and over...That is NO
Last edited by Racemore; 03-06-2010 at 05:09 PM.
03-07-2010, 02:28 AM
#15
Charter Member # 55
Charter MemberThread Starter
Over kill. A sheet of foam 3/4 oz mat and 12oz woven 3/4 mat on the bottom.Make 3 3" tall stringers as wide the opening. 45 the ends to taper down.If you want it to have a crown to it radius the stringers for the desired amount.Once the bottom of the hatch is glassed to the stringers lay up the top of the hatch with a layer of 1- 1/2 oz mat,layer woven,another 1- 1/2 mat.Brush on gelcoat thick then sand it down to almost smooth with 120grt then spray the final gelcoat.Sand smooth and buff out. Light and strong. If we can make 18ft boats under 500#s that make 130mph passes motor covers shouldn't be too heavy.Hinge plate backing can be laminated in the desired area.nothin but a thing.
03-07-2010, 09:08 AM
#16
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Except I do not want to reduce my hatch clearance by 3" with the cross stringers. Also, this would certainly cost a lot more than $150 and take 10 times as long as just screwing and sealing the aluminum plates. My way is no mess and the 150lb + engine hatch can stay on the boat.
Have a Great Day
03-07-2010, 08:55 PM
#17
Charter Member # 55
Charter MemberThread Starter
I won't argue the point except to say.1,wood in a hatch (factory) is cross cut to lay in the mold and to prevent warping. The mold also has edges that turn down so it retains it's shape and rigidity.The cross pieces don't have to be 3"s and don't need to be there at all if it is jigged to the shape desired as it is glassed. It's a little ridiculous to say that it takes 10 times as long and if your cheap I can't do much about that either. I may not be understanding as far as the 150# hatch can stay on the boat or no mess. "no mess,screwing and sealing?Just laminate the plate in position.It's just backing and you won't see it.Sorry if I messed up your day.Must be a lot of iron in your water. Have a Great Day
Have a Great DayI guess just because I don't agree with the way you suggested, my way is wrong
I guess I'll do it the overkill way and be done in 2 hours.
03-08-2010, 06:40 PM
#18
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
