Originally Posted by speedboatr

Hi guys,
I’m working on a white boat that has faded areas on the sides and top. Someone has removed all the vinyl decals so you can also see where the old decals were (in one spot it looks like they had a for sale sign on the side for some time) My goal is to paint new graphics on the sides. Let me know if the following steps are right or if this is the best way to go.

Wet sand side of boat starting at 200 go to 400 go to 800 you only really need to sand with 320 any finer and you could have adhesion problems. If i have a nice surface to prep its all i use, usually on a DA wet

Tape off stripes (any reconditions on who’s tape to use) for long sweeps use 3M's green fine line and for smaller diameter curls and flame type stuff use 3M's blue fine line

Wet sand in area to be painted with 400 If you are doing all the base and graphics in a base clear system you can scuff the area with 600 to remove any nubs but you really shouldnt need to

Spray with primer (any recordation on who’s primer to use) I rarely use any primer except for spot repairs hardly ever do i prime an entire boat unless its a color change then i will use a tinted sealer of an appropriate color. i do always use a clear adhesion promoter between any raw prepped gel and paint

Spray with base color (any recordation on who’s paint to use) I'm a big fan of PPG's DBC system if you are looking for a cost saving alternative the PPG Omni MBC system works fine as well. PPG's DCU-2021 is high on my list for clear

Spray with clear before the base color is completely dry Most base coats have a 24 hour window that you have to apply clear before it "closes" or you could have an adhesion problem on down the road. You can get around this by simple dusting on an intercoat clear or the aforementioned adhesion promoter

Pull tape when before the paint is dry, let the paint dry completelyI prefer to pull while its wet but have done it either way

Wet sand with 1200 if its small wetsanding is ok but for a whole boat dry sand with a DA and an intermediate pad and 1000 then step to a 2000 wet DA pad on to 3000

Buff and wax buff and glaze NO wax for a few weeks

If I’m laying one color strip over another color do I let the 1st color dry completely, tape off and wet sand the area to be painted with the 2nd stripe with 400. Paint, let dry wet sand both strips with 1200 and then clear the whole area (both stripes) wet sand with 1200 and buff and wax.I do all my graphics without any sanding. asecoats dry to the touch and can be masked in as little as twenty minutes

Thanks in advance for your help!
Speed

Originally Posted by glassdave

heres a quick run down on a typical paint process for boats


i usually do the boat in two independent stages if graphics don't conflict. i do the hull sides first than the deck.(on your skiff you can do both at once)
strip all hardware
mask off interior
do all repairs (stress cracks, chips,etc . . .)
spot prime all repairs with PPG's K-36 or equivalent
after primer drys sand entire hull/deck with 320 on a D.A and block sand repair areas
wash hull/deck with grey scotch bright pad and water, pull off all masking paper and tape than wash the entire boat
let sit overnight in warm shop
re-mask off stuff you don't want paint on
wipe down with PPG's DX-330 wax and grease remover

this gets the surface ready for sealer. i usually use a PPG DP epoxy sealer. what ever color is appropriate it comes in green, black,white, red and gray

i usually let the sealer flash overnight and than lightly hit it with 600 grit wet but use the DX-330 instead of water. i use a spray bottle and like i said very lightly with the sandpaper. i do this to pull out any dust that may have set in the sealer.

wipe that down and you should be ready for paint
use PPG's DBC basecoat for your color and
DCU-2021 for clear.
wetsand with 1200 on a DA than 3000 trizak and buff to a shine


now my secret recipe is out an i will no longer have a job


trick is to keep the whole thing simple and try not to back track. if you get a tool out to fix a chip or something, fix all the chips at the same time than prime them all in at the same time. also on very nice boats that are only getting a color change (and are all white gel) i have dropped the DP sealer and used an adheason promotor and had very good results. but you will have to spot seal repairs for good coverage of the finish color. if you have any questions you can also call me at 419-461-1484, always avaliable to lend advise. (right or wrong )

Originally Posted by speedboatr

Glassdave you ROCK! thanks for the info. as for the clear adhesion promoter do you use DPX801?

Thanks again
Speed

Originally Posted by glassdave

I will add more later On options as far as all graphics at once or multiple layers. It really depends on the graphics you are trying to lay down

Originally Posted by pagerboy

dave dbc window of 24 hour is based on 70 degre temp! for every ten degres the time it is cut in half. so if its 80 then the lockup is in 12 hours. 90 is 6 hours and 100 is 3 hours. IM a ppg master ceritfied painter. ppg is awesome and ur right about 2021 clear its good stuff. I wish i new more about gel-coat im fixing to spray it soon!