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Old 11-23-2010, 05:36 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
i use zinc on alunimum, dp on metal and nothing if it already has good paint on it..just scuff and shoot, i like imron on my stuff tho..
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:51 AM
  #12  
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I appreciate all the input...

I'm still several weeks away from painting the long-block, but hoping to shoot all the candy next weekend...manifold, v-covers, blower, carb. Opted to leave the air cleaner as is...for now.

Another quick question...
The carb is currently Mercruiser blue, I plan on repainting it with the blue candy.
My thinking is to give it a good exterior cleaning with some spray carb cleaner, & then do a soda blast to give the paint a profile for the new paint. Of course I will be sealing all openings prior to this.
It's a Dominator, & I'm just thinking that complete disassembly really won't make much of a difference in the way of prepping. It does appear that the carb was painted originally from Mercruiser, fully assembled.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:58 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Floatindirty
How good does a rattle can job come out with just solid black? I can understand with a fancy engine scheme
Echoing what mrfixxall stated...

The rattle can really won't last as long before the rust starts to show thru...especially in the lower bilge area. I went that route, & after a complete season, I could see signs of rust around the oil pan, so this time I'm going a different route...
If you have the engine out, you will be much happier with a good automotive paint from a gun.
The cost really isn't too bad, even if you have to buy a spray gun off ebay, & rent a compressor, or better yet, borrow one from a friend
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