fiberglass HELP 1708
#1
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fiberglass HELP 1708
I was curious as to if the 1708 biaxial cloth pulls apart if you pull it in a certain direction. I have what I beleive to be a 1708 muliaxial cloth and it pull apart when pulling it one direction. I didn't think the 1708 that I always here about here on several boat projects would be able to pull apart but then again I don't use it much. Just want to be sure before doing the finish work on my deck project.
Thanks,
John
PS Also is all 1708 the same OZ. The stuff I have seems like it would work extremely well working around corners etc. and it has a light chopped on the back side also. If I recall it said TXM 1708 but lost the tag on it. It came from Great Lakes Skipper. I am currently using just a light weight chopped on the undersi
Thanks again..de to get all sections in place before moving forward.
Thanks,
John
PS Also is all 1708 the same OZ. The stuff I have seems like it would work extremely well working around corners etc. and it has a light chopped on the back side also. If I recall it said TXM 1708 but lost the tag on it. It came from Great Lakes Skipper. I am currently using just a light weight chopped on the undersi
Thanks again..de to get all sections in place before moving forward.
Last edited by getrdunn; 04-24-2011 at 08:08 PM.
#2
if it is cut along the width of the fabric in narrow pieces (perpendicular to the stiching) then yes it can pull apart easily. You have to cut long narrow patterns along the length of the stiching or the fabric is allowed to elongate and may come apart.
yes all 1708 is is the sme ounce
1708 = first two numbers designate the weight of the fabric in oz/sq.yrd. second two numbers designate the weight of the mat in oz/sq.ft. (15 is ounce and a half, 08 is three quarter ouncs, 00 is no mat)
hows that thing coming along? get some pics up if ya can
yes all 1708 is is the sme ounce
1708 = first two numbers designate the weight of the fabric in oz/sq.yrd. second two numbers designate the weight of the mat in oz/sq.ft. (15 is ounce and a half, 08 is three quarter ouncs, 00 is no mat)
hows that thing coming along? get some pics up if ya can
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Last edited by glassdave; 04-24-2011 at 09:20 PM.
#3
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iTrader: (7)
if it is cut along the width of the fabric in narrow pieces (perpendicular to the stiching) then yes it can pull apart easily. You have to cut long narrow patterns along the length of the stiching or the fabric is allowed to elongate and may come apart.
yes all 1708 is is the sme ounce
1708 = first two numbers designate the weight of the fabric in oz/sq.yrd. second two numbers designate the weight of the mat in oz/sq.ft. (15 is ounce and a half, 08 is three quarter ouncs, 00 is no mat)
hows that thing coming along? get some pics up if ya can
yes all 1708 is is the sme ounce
1708 = first two numbers designate the weight of the fabric in oz/sq.yrd. second two numbers designate the weight of the mat in oz/sq.ft. (15 is ounce and a half, 08 is three quarter ouncs, 00 is no mat)
hows that thing coming along? get some pics up if ya can
I hoped you'd see this thread. Because of the thin deck I am sectioning together I would think I would only get about two layers of the 1708 on the finish surface side. If I do end up needing additional cloth is it ok to use the real thin chopped to aquire proper heidth. The deck glass is 1/4" to 5/16" at best. I did lay both sides back about 3" inches. I found what worked best to keep it relatively even throught was a belt sander. The disc grinder was just way to difficult to keep it uniform. I am really glassing the underside extremely well. This project is not really something you do in a day. lol... It's fun though. Also added several bulkeads through out also. The ones in the cockpit pretty much just run from the floor at about 3" and go up to about 6" at the top at the underside of the deck. Need to beef up the engine compartment next.
Thank again for your help. Just let me know if you can about the outer surface in regards to the amount of material (layers) you'd suspect I would use give the thickness of the existing deck.
Take care for now,
John
#4
Thanks Dave,
I hoped you'd see this thread. Because of the thin deck I am sectioning together I would think I would only get about two layers of the 1708 on the finish surface side. If I do end up needing additional cloth is it ok to use the real thin chopped to aquire proper heidth. The deck glass is 1/4" to 5/16" at best. I did lay both sides back about 3" inches. I found what worked best to keep it relatively even throught was a belt sander. The disc grinder was just way to difficult to keep it uniform. I am really glassing the underside extremely well. This project is not really something you do in a day. lol... It's fun though. Also added several bulkeads through out also. The ones in the cockpit pretty much just run from the floor at about 3" and go up to about 6" at the top at the underside of the deck. Need to beef up the engine compartment next.
Thank again for your help. Just let me know if you can about the outer surface in regards to the amount of material (layers) you'd suspect I would use give the thickness of the existing deck.
Take care for now,
John
I hoped you'd see this thread. Because of the thin deck I am sectioning together I would think I would only get about two layers of the 1708 on the finish surface side. If I do end up needing additional cloth is it ok to use the real thin chopped to aquire proper heidth. The deck glass is 1/4" to 5/16" at best. I did lay both sides back about 3" inches. I found what worked best to keep it relatively even throught was a belt sander. The disc grinder was just way to difficult to keep it uniform. I am really glassing the underside extremely well. This project is not really something you do in a day. lol... It's fun though. Also added several bulkeads through out also. The ones in the cockpit pretty much just run from the floor at about 3" and go up to about 6" at the top at the underside of the deck. Need to beef up the engine compartment next.
Thank again for your help. Just let me know if you can about the outer surface in regards to the amount of material (layers) you'd suspect I would use give the thickness of the existing deck.
Take care for now,
John
If a belt sander is whats workin for ya then belt sand away. Ya know come to think of it i really havnt used mine in decades. I may have to blow the dust off that thing an see what it'll do in the shop. Yes you can use chop mat to build up the surface but try to rely on good scarf ratios and laminate placement as much as ya can.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#5
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
welcome to my world. There is almost never a project that starts with "all ya gotta do is . . . ." and ends with " . . . . now see how easy that was" lol as a general rule of thumb we only see about a third of what actually needs to be done.
If a belt sander is whats workin for ya then belt sand away. Ya know come to think of it i really havnt used mine in decades. I may have to blow the dust off that thing an see what it'll do in the shop. Yes you can use chop mat to build up the surface but try to rely on good scarf ratios and laminate placement as much as ya can.
If a belt sander is whats workin for ya then belt sand away. Ya know come to think of it i really havnt used mine in decades. I may have to blow the dust off that thing an see what it'll do in the shop. Yes you can use chop mat to build up the surface but try to rely on good scarf ratios and laminate placement as much as ya can.
Thanks Dave,
I need to start taking some pics of this project. It has come a long way. I would have been done with the deck by now if it wasn't for all the other structual mods that I've been doing. Looking forward to getting it in paint though.