how to fill holes in transom for outboard conversion
#1
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how to fill holes in transom for outboard conversion
going form inboard to outboard and need advice on how to fill the transom holes. any thoughts???
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Call a glass guy
Actually, it is not that bad, but kinda hard to explain in writing. Get ahold of Glassdave here on OSO, he can probably talk you thru it better than I can, 'cuz I am sure I will miss something typeing it out, he has done it WAYYYYY more than I have. But basically you are gonna make a plywood plug the thickness of the original transom, then glass it in inside and out being sure to have a tight fit on the plug, and beveling out the old glass to blend the new stuff in.
Actually, it is not that bad, but kinda hard to explain in writing. Get ahold of Glassdave here on OSO, he can probably talk you thru it better than I can, 'cuz I am sure I will miss something typeing it out, he has done it WAYYYYY more than I have. But basically you are gonna make a plywood plug the thickness of the original transom, then glass it in inside and out being sure to have a tight fit on the plug, and beveling out the old glass to blend the new stuff in.
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Fixx
seems your going to be hanging all that weight back their you will need to remove all the wood on the inner transom so you can apply multi layers of fiberglass for reinforcement along with lateral supports to carry the weight..
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ok thats good info. i had talked to someone already and they said that making a tight fitting plug out of multiple layers of marine ply to fill the holes and installing "knees" would be a must.
how far up/back should the knees go? (i was thinking all the way up to the seam) and are they just glassed in or are there fasteners that should be used?
there is a good fiberglass guy not to far from here so i am considering having him do it....although i have done quite a bit myself in the past (installing new floors and fixing holes, etc....)
and how thick should they be? (multiple layers of marine ply??)
how far up/back should the knees go? (i was thinking all the way up to the seam) and are they just glassed in or are there fasteners that should be used?
there is a good fiberglass guy not to far from here so i am considering having him do it....although i have done quite a bit myself in the past (installing new floors and fixing holes, etc....)
and how thick should they be? (multiple layers of marine ply??)
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Fixx
ok thats good info. i had talked to someone already and they said that making a tight fitting plug out of multiple layers of marine ply to fill the holes and installing "knees" would be a must.
how far up/back should the knees go? (i was thinking all the way up to the seam) and are they just glassed in or are there fasteners that should be used?
there is a good fiberglass guy not to far from here so i am considering having him do it....although i have done quite a bit myself in the past (installing new floors and fixing holes, etc....)
and how thick should they be? (multiple layers of marine ply??)
how far up/back should the knees go? (i was thinking all the way up to the seam) and are they just glassed in or are there fasteners that should be used?
there is a good fiberglass guy not to far from here so i am considering having him do it....although i have done quite a bit myself in the past (installing new floors and fixing holes, etc....)
and how thick should they be? (multiple layers of marine ply??)
I would start by removing the old wood in the transom and go from their..i would also stick with vinyl ester (no wax)resin,almost as strong as epoxy but will chemically bond better then epoxy..Before you start applying the 1708 mat and resin make sure you have everything set in place to start laying it up..it will be stronger if you do everything at once..also the plywood your going to use,look at the side and count the plys,the more layers or plys the stronger the wood is..when you install the knees or lateral supports you will need to lay in some glass then set the knees in,lay in the tabs and make sure their are no voids under the joints(air pockets) this is why i say make sure everything fits perfect first,make sure all the glass is cut to shape and have it laid out so you can keep going and lay it all up at once.. and most inportant dont mix the resin to hot,it will shatter like glass if you add to much mek
#10
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your best bet would be to find a boat like yours with outboards and see how that one was done..i have a tendency to over kill everything so if you want it to last over engineer it..
I would start by removing the old wood in the transom and go from their..i would also stick with vinyl ester (no wax)resin,almost as strong as epoxy but will chemically bond better then epoxy..Before you start applying the 1708 mat and resin make sure you have everything set in place to start laying it up..it will be stronger if you do everything at once..also the plywood your going to use,look at the side and count the plys,the more layers or plys the stronger the wood is..when you install the knees or lateral supports you will need to lay in some glass then set the knees in,lay in the tabs and make sure their are no voids under the joints(air pockets) this is why i say make sure everything fits perfect first,make sure all the glass is cut to shape and have it laid out so you can keep going and lay it all up at once.. and most inportant dont mix the resin to hot,it will shatter like glass if you add to much mek
I would start by removing the old wood in the transom and go from their..i would also stick with vinyl ester (no wax)resin,almost as strong as epoxy but will chemically bond better then epoxy..Before you start applying the 1708 mat and resin make sure you have everything set in place to start laying it up..it will be stronger if you do everything at once..also the plywood your going to use,look at the side and count the plys,the more layers or plys the stronger the wood is..when you install the knees or lateral supports you will need to lay in some glass then set the knees in,lay in the tabs and make sure their are no voids under the joints(air pockets) this is why i say make sure everything fits perfect first,make sure all the glass is cut to shape and have it laid out so you can keep going and lay it all up at once.. and most inportant dont mix the resin to hot,it will shatter like glass if you add to much mek
the transom on this boat is not rotten or damage din any way. ive never replaced a transom but am sure of my ability to learnand get it done so the work is not the problem, but if i dont have to install a completely new transom i would like to avoid it. but it is what it is.
there is a very accomplished fiberglass man close to me and i am going to approach him about it......WHAT WOULD A FAIR PRICE TO DO THIS JOB BE SO I KNOW WHAT TO CONSIDER RATIONAL???