racered

When a surfacing wax is used in laminating polyester resin, will wiping the surface with an acetone soaked cloth remove the wax layer or is sanding the only positive removal method? Should I try some PVA? I'm really sick of sanding the wax
I don't mind sanding to continue a layup, but after the final topcoat of resin is cured, I want to remove the wax without making dust.
Thank you

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

you should be able to remove it with acetone but it will soften the surface. What are you trying to accomplish? If your looking to achieve a better final surface you should be using something like Duratechs high gloss additive.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

what dave said,,you can also get the resin without the wax in it,no need for sanding if your going to do another lay up over it whyle its still tacky..then you can add wax on the last lay up fo ra tack free surface..

racered

I am using a wax free resin then adding wax for the final coat to dry tack free. I am brushing the resin on and when I sand the wax layer brush strokes appear and I sand to the bottom of the brush stoke lines to get all the wax. There are tight places like inside corners that make sanding difficult,so I would like to remove the wax with a solvent. I also believe that the dust that sanding creates is laced with wax and contributes to fisheyes later. I have used Duratech clear in gelcoat but did not know it could be used in the laminating resin instead of wax, if so that may be the best idea I've heard!! Thank you for that, It would save me a lot of work!!

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

the Duratech product is actually a high gloss additive that i am referring to.

my recipe for bilges is to whale on a waxed gel with either a dump gun (there only like a hundred bucks and way worth having) or heavy brush then sand it smooth (80,120,180) followed by a couple coats of gel/duratech through a regular automotive gun with the biggest tip ya can get your hands on (drill one out if need be, fifteen dollar harbor freight guns are great for this). its a two step process but gives good results.

racered

Yes the Duratech high gloss clear additive #904-001 is what I have. I recall that Duratech instructions stated that gelcoat did not require a wax additive when mixed 50/50 with high gloss clear additive unless the gel was below the water line. So if polyester laminating resin could be mixed with the duratech additive and no wax, I would try it in the bilge. I tried spraying the laminating resin once only, there was to much overspray to make it feasible. I bought the Accuspray gun to spray the gelcoat, I had to drill the nozzle and remove the screen in the cup to get adequate fluid volume even with the Duratech additive which reduced the viscosity. I have not used any solvent for reduction as I have found conflicting opinions on effect to the gelcoat. I have used surfboard resin as a clear over gel and liked the result,(just in practice,not on the hull). That may be an option in the bilge.I am working on my flatbottom Stevens. I have owned this boat over 30 years and have replaced the stringers and plywood in the floor. Now I will be building seat frames and fuel cell mounts to glass in.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

yes thats correct about the ratio and not needing wax. The trick to spraying gel through an automotive gun is a big fluid tip and low air pressure, just enough to get it out of the gun and on to the surface. The best method is still a dump gun if ya can swing it though. Dont use any solvent for reduction, it can have a tenancy to come out of the gel during any atomization and the surface will be grainy and dry. Use styrene if you have to although i have never used anything other then Duratech.

post some pics sounds like a classic. My buddy (lightning jet on here) is a big jet boat/V drive guy. Builds some crazy fast schit.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPRAY-GUN-GE...item415eafbfff

racered

Just a ski boat and a novice effort,,,after new stringers, we worked the bottom,[IMG][/IMG]then sprayed gel,[IMG][/IMG], now working on the floor,[IMG][/IMG]