Donzi Z25 keel damage from beaching
#12
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#13
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You are going to have to get inside the hull to fix that. The entire area is worn thin.
Else, you are going to have to redo a swath on the bottom of the boat at least 12-16" wide to add enough fiber to make it strong. Then you are actually talking about altering the shape of the hull.
Else, you are going to have to redo a swath on the bottom of the boat at least 12-16" wide to add enough fiber to make it strong. Then you are actually talking about altering the shape of the hull.
Gellis - for what its worth you might think about this for your next boat.
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Cant he just hit the inside with a disk and then fill the whole thing with a good epoxy with glass reinforcement then cleanup the outside with a couple heavy coats of glass and sand? I would assume it would be better than factory and last thru another 15 years of beaching.
Gellis - for what its worth you might think about this for your next boat.
Gellis - for what its worth you might think about this for your next boat.
#15
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I would say the first thing you need to do is make sure that the hole is an air pocket in the lay up and is not letting water in. Fill the front area with water from the inside with the boat pointing down hill and see if any water comes out the hole.
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If it is indeed a lay up void, I would just grind out the bubble on the outside and build it back up with CSM to fill the void. After that shape it to match the hull/keel profile and re-gel.
Then on the inside maybe add a couple layers of biax or woven roving since that looks like what the original layup was, to tie it into the surrounding area.
It may not be the 'correct' way to fix it, but for a 24 year old boat, I'm sure it will last plenty long. Especially if you were already running the boat the way it currently is.
Then on the inside maybe add a couple layers of biax or woven roving since that looks like what the original layup was, to tie it into the surrounding area.
It may not be the 'correct' way to fix it, but for a 24 year old boat, I'm sure it will last plenty long. Especially if you were already running the boat the way it currently is.
#17
If it is indeed a lay up void, I would just grind out the bubble on the outside and build it back up with CSM to fill the void. After that shape it to match the hull/keel profile and re-gel.
Then on the inside maybe add a couple layers of biax or woven roving since that looks like what the original layup was, to tie it into the surrounding area.
It may not be the 'correct' way to fix it, but for a 24 year old boat, I'm sure it will last plenty long. Especially if you were already running the boat the way it currently is.
Then on the inside maybe add a couple layers of biax or woven roving since that looks like what the original layup was, to tie it into the surrounding area.
It may not be the 'correct' way to fix it, but for a 24 year old boat, I'm sure it will last plenty long. Especially if you were already running the boat the way it currently is.
Yep, looks pretty basic. I might do the outside first in vinylester and gelcoat. Then after plenty of cure time rough up the inside and level out the area a bit but use an epoxy with a matless 18oz bi-ax cloth. Not really necessary to switch to an epoxy for the inside but i like the added strength in an area like this where the surface and integrity has been compromised. You could use the vinylester inside as well if ya want though.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#18
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Where is the best place to get the stuff I need? Is there a Temperature restriction for cure time and setup? Is there a need to put any glass on the exposed fiber on the outside of the keel?
#19
I like Glassdave's idea of doing the outside first. I was thinking you might first cut out the inside back to decent glass, scarf the edges, then make a rudimenatry mold from a piece of thin polyelthlene, bend it to follow the keel, and tape it in place. Do the layup from the inside, using bigger and bigger pieces of glass to follow the scarf.
You might let the first laminate cure before going onto the rest, to really give you something to hold some pressure so that you can work the air out of the rest of the stack.
I think this method would work out better than trying to work under the boat, as it puts gravity on your side, and will keep you from fighting with it. Epoxy, unlike polyester, isn't that "sticky" when it's being worked, which I think is a good thing. I can't vouch for vinlyester, as I haven't done anything with it, but I imagine it works more like epoxy, and might be a tough go working upsidedown.
Last edited by tcelano; 11-26-2011 at 12:41 PM.