Would epoxy work best?
#1
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Would epoxy work best?
Dave,
Let me explain what I've done already and what I hope to achieve with a little help. What i've done so far is,... glassed completely the deck & hull together (inside & out) got rid of the rub-rail and will replace with a smooth uninterupted look -or- capping. (I already grinded down the "shoe-box" lip outside and taped with 1708 & vinylester) it's flush now & from this point on I want to radius the area were the rub-rail used to be.
Because the radius will take a lot of material just to fill in ( it's 3/4" @ the deepest point) I've decided to use the many mouldings I've had in storage to fill in this area. The material the moulding is made from is vinyl.........I know the poly's don't stick to plastic.............would epoxy be best to use here? "See pictures" ...I drilled holes every 6" for a better adhesion & there's space between the moulding edges...I hope to glass over & finish with a fairing putty when done.
would expoxy be the best resin here?....I'll paint & not gel-coat when done........................Thanks
Let me explain what I've done already and what I hope to achieve with a little help. What i've done so far is,... glassed completely the deck & hull together (inside & out) got rid of the rub-rail and will replace with a smooth uninterupted look -or- capping. (I already grinded down the "shoe-box" lip outside and taped with 1708 & vinylester) it's flush now & from this point on I want to radius the area were the rub-rail used to be.
Because the radius will take a lot of material just to fill in ( it's 3/4" @ the deepest point) I've decided to use the many mouldings I've had in storage to fill in this area. The material the moulding is made from is vinyl.........I know the poly's don't stick to plastic.............would epoxy be best to use here? "See pictures" ...I drilled holes every 6" for a better adhesion & there's space between the moulding edges...I hope to glass over & finish with a fairing putty when done.
would expoxy be the best resin here?....I'll paint & not gel-coat when done........................Thanks
#2
To tell ya the truth I don't think going rub rail-less is a good idea with that style shoe box. You'll notice most boats that it's done on have flush surfaces and blend better. Unless you can grind that whole raised area down there's no way to achieve that smooth look that's associated with no rail. That raised area is also going to be almost impossible to keep from chipping, it's easier to keep a large flat area good but something sticking out like that, not so much.
I don't think anything would stick well enough to that molding to make it a suitable core.
I don't think anything would stick well enough to that molding to make it a suitable core.
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#4
I was thinking coosa or something like that as well but then thought that may be kinda soft "on point" like that. I guess I need some clarification skip. Are you going to have a raised smoothed rub rail shaped thing around the boat?
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
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#5
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The picture doesn't show demension well, but top & bottom strips are quarter round mouldings. From the picture they look almost flat, but they're not. When I start shaping a radius it will be more apparent. I have no plans to add anything more than the radius..........A wide pinstripe along the center of the radius (where the rub-rail was) might work, we'll see later on.
I did an adhesion test today with 2 different resins...placed 2 half's of vinyl moulding and sandwiched together one pair with epoxy and another with vinylester.........I sanded with 80 grit to prep the surface first and thickened both w/ cab-o-sil...........after less than a 24 hr. cure, both have a tenacious grip that I could not separate with a chisel
I did an adhesion test today with 2 different resins...placed 2 half's of vinyl moulding and sandwiched together one pair with epoxy and another with vinylester.........I sanded with 80 grit to prep the surface first and thickened both w/ cab-o-sil...........after less than a 24 hr. cure, both have a tenacious grip that I could not separate with a chisel
#6
may not be immediate but i would worry about the dissimilar thermal expansion rates. To me it looks like it will be trouble down the road from any number of things. I guess i dont see the point of going rub rail less if you end up with this protruding thing that is the shape of a rub rail only smoothed and painted. I have actually repaired vinyl rail with poly and it was ok for a little while but eventually it had issues.
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10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#7
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Dave.......I think your right and decided to drop the whole idea. ........ to many dissimilar materials thrown together and all the consequences down the road, not to mention so many pieces to be glued...........What was I thinking!!!.....Thanks
#8
sorry bout raining on your parade
I thought about going rail-less with mine but after looking it over real good it just didnt seem like a good idea. At least without a TON of work
I thought about going rail-less with mine but after looking it over real good it just didnt seem like a good idea. At least without a TON of work
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#9
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After thinking I would eliminate the rubrail on my 27 sport (I had already glassed deck and hull together inside and out) capping the hull & deck on a magnum would not have the same seemless look as some other boats .... even though the capping was faired & straight the area was to large & bulky. It needed a defining line in it (like the rub-rail I just eliminated) I tried different looks like vinyl strips, but was not pleased........I mittered long oak moulding to flex in the curve of the hull and epoxied them all in........not a good pic here, but a bit more glass & fairing and I should be done.