painting drives
#11
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#13
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I originally painted everything white to go with the name/theme of the boat. I liked the look, but just wanted to change things up last winter. After 8 years I guess she needed a face lift.
#16
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After sanding I filled in about 1/2milliion pits, cut off the broken skegs to match each other, primed the drives, split the cases, taped and painted each individual component.
Here are a few pics of the evolution of the drives. The pics of the black drives are when I first bought the boat. Also I am no expert and just a weekend warrior. This is what I have done and seems to have worked for me. These drives and tabs took over a month to do, 2-3hrs/day after work. It was more work than I expected. And I have a new found respect for GlassDave and others that paint for a living. What I thought would look good did not once I put down the primer. Flaws everywhere, more sanding and then prime again. It was a vicious cycle.
Sorry BC for the hi-jack.
#17
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I palm sanded 90% that I could get to(40, 80, 150, 220grit). I then locally sand blasted the nooks and crevices I couldn't reach. I tried to remove all the white paint that I could but it stuck really good in some spots. The original white paint is DuPont ChromaOne single stage paint put right over the original 1986TRS Merc black paint and sanded aluminum. It stuck great. The solid white drives were painted summer of '03. I might kick myself later for not using ChromaOne again seeing that I had good luck with it.
After sanding I filled in about 1/2milliion pits, cut off the broken skegs to match each other, primed the drives, split the cases, taped and painted each individual component.
Here are a few pics of the evolution of the drives. The pics of the black drives are when I first bought the boat. Also I am no expert and just a weekend warrior. This is what I have done and seems to have worked for me. These drives and tabs took over a month to do, 2-3hrs/day after work. It was more work than I expected. And I have a new found respect for GlassDave and others that paint for a living. What I thought would look good did not once I put down the primer. Flaws everywhere, more sanding and then prime again. It was a vicious cycle.
Sorry BC for the hi-jack.
After sanding I filled in about 1/2milliion pits, cut off the broken skegs to match each other, primed the drives, split the cases, taped and painted each individual component.
Here are a few pics of the evolution of the drives. The pics of the black drives are when I first bought the boat. Also I am no expert and just a weekend warrior. This is what I have done and seems to have worked for me. These drives and tabs took over a month to do, 2-3hrs/day after work. It was more work than I expected. And I have a new found respect for GlassDave and others that paint for a living. What I thought would look good did not once I put down the primer. Flaws everywhere, more sanding and then prime again. It was a vicious cycle.
Sorry BC for the hi-jack.
#18
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Just remember to stick to a system when painting. I have been a auto/boat painter for 16yrs and learned to stick to a system when paintind. If you use a zinc etch system for priming do not use a polyester filler over the zinc, they do not like eachother. The best thing i have found for pitted metal is to epoxyprime the bare metal and then fill any imperfections and prime again. the epoxy bonds well with the bare metal and the filler has great adheasion to the epoxy. Anytime you have dirty metal{not new} you want to smother it from getting oxygen and epoxy is the best for that.
#19
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Here is a link to my a thread that I started when I painted mine. Maybe you can find some info here that would be of help.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...s-painted.html
Roger
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...s-painted.html
Roger
#20
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