Planning some repairs/upgrades
#1
Planning some repairs/upgrades
I've found a lot of paint cracks, and a few delaminations in my boat. I am also going to sell all the bravo parts off of it and install SSM3's.
First will plugging the transom be ok or is a total replacement necessary ?
Will I have to raise my exhaust? The platform is already right on them so it would have to be raised also.
Paint cracks/ stress cracks.
I'll have to post some pics, there are 3 stress, impact cracks i've found. Not bad but I have to fix several cracks in the paint close by. Do I grind these down prime and repaint ? What causes paint to crack? Most come out from screw holes, but a couple are random.
I know this is going to be a lot of work, but it drives me nuts. I cant stand staring at all the imperfections. I am going to strip the cockpit and bilge, remove the fairing and start all the work early fall. The cockpit all needs to come out and get fastened better, more fitting for an offshore boat. It took me an hour to put things back together after running to block island last weekend.
Thanks in advance
First will plugging the transom be ok or is a total replacement necessary ?
Will I have to raise my exhaust? The platform is already right on them so it would have to be raised also.
Paint cracks/ stress cracks.
I'll have to post some pics, there are 3 stress, impact cracks i've found. Not bad but I have to fix several cracks in the paint close by. Do I grind these down prime and repaint ? What causes paint to crack? Most come out from screw holes, but a couple are random.
I know this is going to be a lot of work, but it drives me nuts. I cant stand staring at all the imperfections. I am going to strip the cockpit and bilge, remove the fairing and start all the work early fall. The cockpit all needs to come out and get fastened better, more fitting for an offshore boat. It took me an hour to put things back together after running to block island last weekend.
Thanks in advance
#3
Gold Member
Gold Member
If your transom is in good shape - as you say it is - you can just plug it and cut new openings. Of course how well you plug the old openings is important.
One question though. Last time I checked, a Bravo didn't require a transmission and a SSM3 did. That means you're going to have to completely re-rig the engine compartment and move the engines forward. Some of that will drive whether or not you have to move your exhaust, but generally speaking, the extra distance your transmissions will take up gives you more lattitude to not have to move them.
One question though. Last time I checked, a Bravo didn't require a transmission and a SSM3 did. That means you're going to have to completely re-rig the engine compartment and move the engines forward. Some of that will drive whether or not you have to move your exhaust, but generally speaking, the extra distance your transmissions will take up gives you more lattitude to not have to move them.
#7
Registered
start with the props where they are now and work up and forward from there. i assume you already own the SSM's or you wouldn't be doing this. measure diff in height from crank center to prop center on both drives. same height? didn't think so. so, if you are ok with where props are now, get the template for the drive cutout for III's. i think it is the same as TRS. could be wrong. mark where on the cutout the crank center is. mark where on the transom the old bravo crank center is-was. lay the template over the bravo keyhole cutout. with new crank center in the right place. this will show you how much transom needs to be replaced. i think it is very little at the bottom. now, look at new crank center. measure up to top of exhausts. do they fit under engine hatch? now. measure forward. the number 14 inches come to mind as how much farther forward crank pulley will be with Borgs behind motor. is there room behind back seat? or are you now redoing the entire interior? i don't think staggering is necessary, unless moving drives closer to centerline. obviously there is room for the motors side by side now.
#8
The boat was originally a trs boat, so i know there is plenty of room to move the engines ahead. It looks like there may even be enough to do a short or semi stagger, waiting on measurements for that. I'm not sure if there is enough room under the hatch but if I have to build new I will. My biggest concern is what to run for a propshaft height. I've found very limited info other than most factory installations out there were too low. I'm thinking 3" below the running surface based on what little I've found. I don't want to keep tearing the boat down to go higher.
#10
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Fixx
Do it all at once..you will need to grind into the cracks then flare the, out so you can fill them with fiberglass then filler to blend back in to the factory surface..you will need to use a uratrhane primer if your boat is painted,vinylester if its gel..regular primer is like a spomgue and will soak up the water...