rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

A while back I bought a metal race fairing for the Pantera. I want to replicate this in fiberglass. I was going to pull a mold from the metal unit, but looking closer at it, the way the welds and stuff are, this is not going to work. What I would like to do instead is use it as a template to build it freeform, then glass and Gel over whatever coring I decide to use. This is my question, what would you suggest to build the base from?

2 Trick Rick

I would think you could use the metal fairing to pull a mold from, how bad is it?

Just weld, grind and body work.

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

When they built it, it has lap joints that are welded. so there is a lip on the sides where the front is bent 90°, lapped over the sides, and welded. I was thinking of filling it ,and doing the bodywork, then using it to pull a mold. But it is also a cool piece off of the no-limits raceboat that I want to restore and use in the mancave.

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9d-IdDciNw[/YOUTUBE]

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

if its comprised of all flat components i would consider Coosa. It works and shapes very easy, i use it occasionally for freeforms like this and quick loft it all together with long two inch staples out of my air gun. Something in the Nautical series would be good. A trick to getting a better raw final finish to work with is to cover the last layer with peel ply at the end. Way easier to sand and fair out.

ren3

If you go the free form route and not want to spray gelcoat, the small white foam rollers from Home Depot will allow you to roll on the gelcoat with about the same orange peel as spraying. If you add Duratec to the final coat of gelcoat you will have an easy time sanding and compounding. I have done this on the interior of my 28' center console. The Home Depot rollers will last about 15 minutes before they start to swell. Lowe's rollers are not solvent resistant at all.

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dave,

Any idea where to get it in South FL?? What are my other options? Never worked with Peel ply, I'll hit ya up when it comes time.

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

no prob

peel ply is a consumable layer we use to separate the laminate and the bleeder used for bagging. Its actually just a nylon film with a release agent in it. It pretty much eliminates those threads that stand up in the surface of a wet layup. I use it all the time in final layers to give a smoother final surface. Its not as contour friendly as say a nice 45/45 bi ax but you really dont have to be as critical, you can cut fit corners. I just laminate it in with a roller (small paint type) and work all the air out of it so its evenly saturated/balanced. Also helps to work air voids out with a yellow bondo spreader. Saves a tone of finish time and materials.

Not sure where to get coosa down there. Gotta be a place somewhere in the boat capital of the US